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Post by jonklein611 on Sept 25, 2024 12:04:01 GMT -8
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Post by bmoore765 on Sept 25, 2024 16:56:00 GMT -8
Received mine today. I’ve only had a few minutes to run it, but so far so good.
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ST974
New Member
Posts: 41
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Post by ST974 on Sept 26, 2024 5:32:06 GMT -8
My hobby shop has extras not reserved and I'm waiting to see videos and comments here from modelers about the locomotive. A video made by the company is obviously going to be glowing so I don't pay them much attention.
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ictom
Full Member
Posts: 104
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Post by ictom on Sept 27, 2024 8:38:15 GMT -8
Received mine today. I’ve only had a few minutes to run it, but so far so good. Can you tell us, because Rapido's info is obscure regarding this detail, is the boiler diecast?
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Post by bmoore765 on Sept 27, 2024 9:04:19 GMT -8
I believe it is. I'll verify when I spend more time with it this weekend. I assume it is though because it does have decent weight to it. It's a very strong puller. I put it on a 13 car passenger train and it had no problem. My BLI C&O brass hybrid 4-8-4 struggles a little with this same consist by comparison. Seems to be a very smooth runner right out of the box. My initial impressions are all positive. There are some details not quite right for 2816, but nothing we didn't already know about from the pictures.
*Update* - I just checked and can confirm the boiler shell is indeed diecast.
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Post by prr 4467 on Sept 28, 2024 8:12:48 GMT -8
Seems like a nice loco.
I do not prefer diecast boilers simply due to the 1980's Oriental Limited Powerhouse Series locos, some of which now evidence zinc pest. I'd prefer brass bodies, but even then the diecast frames could still experience issues with zinc pest at a later date.
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ictom
Full Member
Posts: 104
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Post by ictom on Sept 28, 2024 11:34:58 GMT -8
Seems like a nice loco. I do not prefer diecast boilers simply due to the 1980's Oriental Limited Powerhouse Series locos, some of which now evidence zinc pest. I'd prefer brass bodies, but even then the diecast frames could still experience issues with zinc pest at a later date. The Bull Mooses will come with a diecast frame, like every other BLI Brass Hybrid. If we want metal, we either accept the risk of zinc pest or start spending up to $5K each for modern brass locomotives. It doesn't stop me from buying modern diesels in plastic, but steam is already so expensive, I would rather not have fragile plastic that ages to brittleness, warps from creep deformation over time, or melts from a runaway decoder or smoke unit. Broadway has been producing diecast for 20+ years now, along with almost every other mfr using diecast frames or weights. We've heard of a few issues, but it seems the percentage is very, very low compared to the numbers of product.
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Post by prr 4467 on Sept 29, 2024 10:10:36 GMT -8
I am well aware, though it usually takes longer than 20 years for zinc pest to begin to show up (I know, excepting certain flat car frames which have been discussed on here).
Paint helps to seal the diecast metal from the air, so it then takes much longer for zinc pest to appear.
I did already get rid of my plastic steam for some of the reasons cited. I've seen BLI plastic boilers crack in the vicinity of the smoke unit. I don't use the smoke units anyway, but I get upset when a brand-new loco arrives with a cracked boiler (last ATSF 4-8-4 I had).
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Post by bmoore765 on Sept 30, 2024 6:21:30 GMT -8
Interesting that the topic of zinc pest has come up. I have some Bachmann heavyweight passenger cars from the late 1990's with diecast trucks that have just recently started to crack and fail. This is my first encounter with zinc pest. It's unfortunate, but I've gotten close to 30 years out of them. Diecast boilers have been common for quite a while now and I've had no issues. I would think that zinc pest is going to give up the ghost on parts that are taking mechanical stress (trucks, frames,etc.) quicker than detail parts, boilers, etc. I'm guessing that a plastic boiler shell really isn't going to offer much long term assurance when you still have a diecast frame. I've certainly ended up with a lot more cracked plastic than I have metal.
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ST974
New Member
Posts: 41
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Post by ST974 on Sept 30, 2024 7:14:31 GMT -8
Interesting that the topic of zinc pest has come up. I have some Bachmann heavyweight passenger cars from the late 1990's with diecast trucks that have just recently started to crack and fail. This is my first encounter with zinc pest. It's unfortunate, but I've gotten close to 30 years out of them. Diecast boilers have been common for quite a while now and I've had no issues. I would think that zinc pest is going to give up the ghost on parts that are taking mechanical stress (trucks, frames,etc.) quicker than detail parts, boilers, etc. I'm guessing that a plastic boiler shell really isn't going to offer much long term assurance when you still have a diecast frame. I've certainly ended up with a lot more cracked plastic than I have metal. Pretty much every article on zinc pest will tell you that it's rare and circumstantial on environment. If you're storing your models in an attic where the temperature fluctuates 40 degrees, it is most likely than not but no one should be storing them in a situation like that anyways.
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Post by edwardsutorik on Sept 30, 2024 11:28:37 GMT -8
Pretty much every article on zinc pest will tell you that it's rare and circumstantial on environment. If you're storing your models in an attic where the temperature fluctuates 40 degrees, it is most likely than not but no one should be storing them in a situation like that anyways. It's not rare when it happens to you--only when it happens to other people. Humidity is probably more important as a cause than temperture, but temperature does speed up the reactions. Ed
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sdevo
New Member
Posts: 22
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Post by sdevo on Oct 1, 2024 8:18:20 GMT -8
It is a nice locomotive. The drive-train looks to be the same as the previously released Royal Hudson based on my inspection of it. The biggest change being the boiler, which is metal. The Tender and cab seem to also be reused from the Royal Hudson, with specific details and minor changes applied. Overall its a gorgeous locomotive. I will give Rapido credit where it is due and they learned a lot from the Royal Hudson. Time will tell if they have issues.
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Post by bmoore765 on Oct 2, 2024 5:17:14 GMT -8
Finally got to spend a few hours with mine. Here are some general comments.
1) Visually stunning locomotive, but I do wish they had taken more care to get the details accurate for 2816. Most glaring is straight instead of bent feedwater heater piping and lack of a working diaphragm between the engine and tender (a feature the other H1 models apparently have). Might be nitpicking, but given that the 2816 version was hyped up I think they could have done a little more. I also wish the 2816 version had glossy paint instead of satin, but that's just my opinion. 2) Headlight looks way too big to me. I'm not sure if it's truly too large or if there is an illusion due to the black light tunnel connecting the headlight to the smokebox. I think a prototypical open space behind the headlight would have greatly improved the appearance. 3) The ditchlights were crooked on my model. Also one ditchlight was pointed slightly up. I ended up breaking the board they attach to trying to adjust it, but was able to glue it back into place. This was the only assembly issue I noticed. Engine seems very well assembled. 4) Speed range using NCE power cab is a scale .8mph to 68mph. A little on the slow side, but just right for the excursion era. I wonder if the other versions are the same or if the excursion version 2816 has some CV tweeks? Was hoping to doublehead occasionally with some of my other excursion steamer models but the speed curve isn't anywhere close to any other model I own steam or diesel. That's going to take some work. 5) There is noticeable jerkyness at speed steps 1-4 and then smooths out. I'll see if this improves with more break in, but I think starting speed could be set a little higher and still look fine. 6) Pulling power is really good. I have it on a 12 car passenger consist including some cars that don't have the best rolling quality. My BLI brass hybrid C&O 4-8-4 will occassionally slip with this consist so pretty impressive for a smaller locomotive. 7) Engine tracks perfectly. No dog tailing coming out of sharp curves like other steam locomotives and backs up straight as an arrow. Very nice. 8) Sound is really good, but only comes from the tender. The royal hudson had speakers in both the tender and smokebox. I'm guessing maybe there was a space issue. 9) Instructions for DCC functions don't always seem accurate. For example functions 4 creates a drift sound while function 9 creates a labored sound but there is no throttle lock and no ability to regulate the chuff intensity at a set speed like the instructions allude to. Also, the doppler whistle seems to be set and does not change when changing the whistle selection like the instructions state.
All in all a very nice model. Assuming it holds up long term this is going to be a winner.
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Post by edwardsutorik on Oct 2, 2024 5:50:06 GMT -8
Traction tire?
Frequently, doing the "auto tune" improves running quality. I've also noticed that adding momentum also helps at slow speeds.
I have yet to see Rapido doing "number specific" paint and detailing. This might explain the detailing defects.
The headlights's definitely too long. The diameter looks about right. I am guessing that the "light tunnel" is more a tube for the wires for an LED.
Ed
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Post by bmoore765 on Oct 2, 2024 7:59:34 GMT -8
Traction tire? Frequently, doing the "auto tune" improves running quality. I've also noticed that adding momentum also helps at slow speeds. I have yet to see Rapido doing "number specific" paint and detailing. This might explain the detailing defects. The headlights's definitely too long. The diameter looks about right. I am guessing that the "light tunnel" is more a tube for the wires for an LED. Ed It does have traction tires installed but seem to be of high quality. A non traction tired set of drivers is included along with the tool to swap them out. Extra traction tires are also included.
Ordinarily I'd agree on the detailing, but for this model Rapido did include some very specific 2816 details such as dual dynamos, modified royal hudson tender with extended top shrouds with oil conversion, ditch lights, second whistle, etc., cab sand box, etc. They clearly went the extra mile for the excursion version but missed a few things.
You're probably right that the the black tube is for wires and not a light tunnel. I think running bare wires to the headlight instead of the black plastic tube would have been more visually effective.
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Post by edwardsutorik on Oct 2, 2024 9:52:43 GMT -8
Traction tire? Frequently, doing the "auto tune" improves running quality. I've also noticed that adding momentum also helps at slow speeds. I have yet to see Rapido doing "number specific" paint and detailing. This might explain the detailing defects. The headlights's definitely too long. The diameter looks about right. I am guessing that the "light tunnel" is more a tube for the wires for an LED. Ed It does have traction tires installed but seem to be of high quality. A non traction tired set of drivers is included along with the tool to swap them out. Extra traction tires are also included. I LIKE that. Very good, Rapido. Sorta half-way there. Still: good! Considering that wires really DO go to the headlight, it do agree that it would have been better to just run the wires--the wily modeler might be able to ACC them together, to better simulate the cabling. [/quote] Ed
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Post by bmoore765 on Oct 3, 2024 5:04:23 GMT -8
Considering that wires really DO go to the headlight, it do agree that it would have been better to just run the wires--the wily modeler might be able to ACC them together, to better simulate the cabling. Ideal solution would be to run one headlight wire from under the headlight bracket where it couldn't be seen and run the second wire from behind the front handrail stanchion plainly visible to simulate the electrical conduit. One of my pet peeves of most steam models is that with all the super detailing the headlight electrical conduit is almost always missed for some reason. It's as if we want to hide all wires even when they are there on the real thing!
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