Building one of the very last Athearn blue box kits: PS-5344

[sd40dash2]

This may have been the last new blue box kit introduced by Athearn in 1999-2000 according to the dates shown on the instructions. The architecture and design of this model align with industry standards applied to other kits at the time such as Branchline, P2K and Intermountain.

It looks like a large quantity of these model kits were produced. They were abundant in my local store discount bin a decade later & can still be found at shows and on ebay 25 years after their release.

Yes, I am aware the body on this model is too wide and that other companies have made better examples of the PS-5344. But none of the competing PS-5344 models was ever offered in this oddball mid-1990s CP Rail paint scheme that seems to have confused modellers and manufacturers alike. I am referring to the "incorrect" font used by the prototype for the "CP Rail" lettering applied at "D&H 0-7-95". Athearn replicated it correctly on this original kit but one or more of their subsequent RTR releases got it wrong. I can't tell if it's correct on the newest releases, perhaps an informed reader knows the answer to that?

I am aware of no decals that accurately replicate these odd CP Rail fonts & I am not in the mood to deal with custom decals for this. The idea behind this thread is to demonstrate the enjoyment of a basic kit at roughly face value.

So here is my version of the Athearn PS-5344 boxcar with a few simple upgrades. Follow along, like, comment and ask questions!

[lvrr325]

I remember having some issues getting the wire grabs to go in. Holes were on the tight side.

But I also only built one of them.

[sd40dash2]

Sept 27, 2024 8:48:11 GMT -8 lvrr325 said:

... issues getting the wire grabs to go in. Holes were on the tight side.

Yes, ream out all holes on these kits before attempting to push in any parts. Don't try forcing them in.

[drsvelte]

These build into nice cars, even if they were a bit tubby.

[scl1234]

0.008 inch wire stirrups are, IMHO, preferred to replace the kit versions that seem to break if you look at them wrong. The kit stirrups may be 0.008 inch, but are plastic.

[wagnersteve]

9/27/2024
starting about 3:15 p.m.

For what it may be worth, yes, these were the last of Athearn's "blue box" kits, and their crosswise width was excessive. However, the orange one decorated as one of the cars P-S built for the Upper Merion & Plymouth that the D&H got instead and patched had the orange colors right, which the ExactRail model, though its width was correct, emphatically did not. I also think "sd40dash2" is correct about the Athearn version's having the font the ex-D&H shops at Oneonta used in repainting cars for the CP, which had acquired the D&H in 1991. If I bought one of those models I must have gotten rid of it.

"drsvelte", I like your KCS model.

[sd40dash2]

Sept 27, 2024 11:13:15 GMT -8 scl1234 said:

0.008 inch wire stirrups are, IMHO, preferred to replace the kit versions that seem to break if you look at them wrong. The kit stirrups may be 0.008 inch, but are plastic.

<spoiler> Agreed. Despite being VERY careful I still managed to break two of the four stirrups and there were no spares. Not a big deal, just replaced them with Tichy 3038s that came off their sprue much easier. Not perfect but will have to do. </spoiler>

[sd40dash2]

These kits were in the 5800-series and used long boxes that fit SD40-2 locomotives. I'll probably use a more appropriately-sized Intermountain kit box to store the completed car.

[chitownjeff]

Did Athearn ever retool these cars to the correct width?

[sd40dash2]

Two sheets of standard-sized paper contain instructions and clues about model era.

[cpr4200]

Sept 27, 2024 18:08:15 GMT -8 chitownjeff said:

Did Athearn ever retool these cars to the correct width?

Pretty sure they did. I think the current production RTR cars are right.

[sd40dash2]

IMO the star of this show is that weird CP Rail font. It also appeared on the SOO FDL boxcar repaints done around the same time. Fox Valley did offer their model RTR in that scheme if you don't want to builld this old Athearn kit and don't mind the different prototype car.

[sd40dash2]

OK let's get into the kit contents. Envelope 75062 contains trucks, E-Z Mate knuckle couplers, boxes and truck mounting screws. Envelope 581501 contains the very delicate tackboards, door latches, brake wheel assembly, stirrups and end ladders. The kit lacks end crossover platforms, creating a market for the Plano kit shown.

[sd40dash2]

All contents of included envelope 1 of 2.

[drsvelte]

A lot of snipping for the brake appliances!

[sd40dash2]

I was only successful in removing two of the kit stirrups. Nippers will obliterate these parts so I used a chisel knife instead. That worked but then the parts broke when I attempted to clean-up the flash. These are the closest Tichy replacements I could find. I think next time I'll save the time wasted fighting to use the factory stirrups and just go to the 3038s straight-away.

[idgara]

Try using a double sided razor blade, tape the one side to hold, the other to cut with. They’re pretty flimsy and drag over where part connects to spruce, I use them, especially on the blueprint series boxcars kits. They are more tedious but it doesn’t put tension on tiny parts.

[riogrande]

I have a pair of sprue nippers that look like tweezers that come to a very fine point. The tips are sharp enough to get right in to nip the parts off putting little or no tension on them.

I've used them many times to cut tiny stirrups and brake piping from sprues. So far I have found them to be make the job of removing those tiny parts from sprues much easier. I bought them at a tool vendor at a train show years ago for about $16 at the time. PBL used to sell several like mine with different sharpnesses on them. I've used them to remove fine parts from Likelike Proto 2000 kits and Intermountain kits - they really made the job so much easier.

[tony]

The best part of this model is on the inside: Made in the U.S.A.

[tony]

Sept 27, 2024 18:08:15 GMT -8 chitownjeff said:

Did Athearn ever retool these cars to the correct width?

No.  Don't think they ever will.   I made a jig to cut this on my table saw - straight down the center line.  After welding back together it closely matches the width of the ExactRail shell. The ends weld together very nicely,  the roof stamping profile not as well.   I used a brand new blade when I cut them.   Maybe with some custom made clamps I can get a perfect fit for the roof seam.  But,  I would welcome a new shell with more details and accurate train line.  The ExactRail model needs some attention to details.

The reason I made the jig was because at the Athearn Open House at Carson they have leftover shells and floors - they were selling a box of ~28 shells for $5 and a box of floors $5 (qty = 500).  I picked up several boxes of each.

[sd40dash2]

Here's what you receive in the second parts envelope. I believe the couplers are McHenry, a real treat at the time. I had hopes those would work out but 25 years on the Kadee coupler remains tops.

[milgentrains]

I have several of these cars stashed away. I need to find them so I can start building them.

[sd40dash2]

The well-known factory truck at right may have satisfied us decades ago, but not anymore. They are ok as a stand-in but why settle when you can upgrade your kit with something much nicer? Rapido S-2 at left.

[sd40dash2]

Shiny black plastic looks like what it is. Not good enough for me, so I give everything a nice flat spray and allow to dry outside.

[sd40dash2]

After side A has dried, turn everything over and spray side B. Spray the draft gear exterior as well.

[sd40dash2]

Then allow everything to dry outside.

[sd40dash2]

Instructions recommend glue, but the factory weight seems to hold quite well just with simple friction. I went the extra step and applied a short piece of 2-sided tape to help affix the weight.

[valenciajim2]

I had not thought about using double sided tape to attach the weight. I should have because all of the supplemental 1/4 and 1/2 oz weights have double sided tape attached at the bottom.

[sd40dash2]

Underframe all done, the flat black on everything really makes the shiny wheel treads stand out.

[sd40dash2]

MODEL FINISHED: A-end of CPAA 211172, original kit did not include air hoses or uncoupling levers.