Begginer's question: Trainman doesn't run smooth

[orenher]

Hello,

I apologize if my question is repeating a lot, but I couldn't find any answer using the "search" option, or a FAQ thread:

I have an Atlas Trainman set running on my desktop. At first, it ran very smooth, and very slow if I wanted. The performance deteriorated fast, and now it runs for an inch or two, then stops. I need to push it, and to supply high voltage, so it'll move the next inch (just to get stuck again...)

I've cleaned the rails, using a wet cloth;
I've used "Bright Boy";
I've cleaned the wheels using contacts cleaning spray;
I even ran the wheels on a cloth with WD40 (an advise from the shop at the Union Pacific museum in Utah).

NOTHING WORKS!

Any suggestions?

[grahamline]

My WAG is that the track connectors are working loose and you're losing power. "It'll move the next inch" suggests you are running on to an unpowered rail. No matter how clean it is, is still needs electricity.

You can fix this by pinching the rail joiner with a needle-nose pliers but they will soon work loose again. The better solution is to hold the track sections firmly in place and solder the rail joints.

[orenher]

It's not the connectors: if I move the locomotive by hand, on the same section where it's stuck, the wheels begin to rotate. I did have loose connectors before, and that problem was indeed easy to spot and fix.

It appears to behave the same as old drills, where you need to twist them slightly by hand so they'd start working.

That's why I'm almost sure the problem lies within the loco's motor/s

[bnsffan]

Moving the locomotive by hand could be providing enough pressure on the connectors to provide continuity.

If you have access to a volt/ohm meter, measure the voltage on the rails.

Bypass the track and touch a pair of wheels with wires from the power pack and see what happens.

Respectively,
BNSF Fan

[catt]

The Trainman locos get their power from the trucks rubbing on the bottom of the frame.If these contacts get dirty and they will over time performance suffers.

You may have to remove the shell loosen the frame screws just enough to pop the trucks out and clean ( polish) both the truck contacts and the bottom of the frame where the trucks make contact.

This is not a difficult job but may be a bit intimidating for a beginner.

[jlong]

Dirty track and wheels are a common problem with N scale. If you give it a nudge and it takes off, dirty wheels (or track) are definately suspect and you may have not cleaned the wheels properly. A popular way to clean wheels is to soak a paper towel with 91% Isporsyl alcohol and lay the towel on the track. Prop one truck on the towel and the other on the bare track, so it gets power. Holding the engine firmly, apply power so the wheels spin in the soaked towel. If that doesn't work, dissasembly and cleaning contacts may be the only answer.

[orenher]

Thanks jlong,

I've tried this specific trick with WD40, but not alcohol. I'll try your method in the next few days.

The tracks are code 65, nickel plated. Do they need anything more than a wet cloth?

(again - I do have "Bright Boy", but it didn't solve my problem)

[jlong]

WD-40 is a new one on me and I don't know how good of a solvent it is. Plus it may harm plastics. Brite boy track eraser is not something you want to use regularly because it leaves minute scratches where gum can collect. Alcolhol on a soft cloth is a good track cleaner. It evaporates completely and leaves no film.

[catt]

My favorite track cleaner is a piece of Midwest cork roadbed.It will clean the track without scratching the rail top.It may require a bit more elbow grease but it gets the job done.