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Post by dutch245 on Jul 19, 2012 7:07:18 GMT -8
The bridge is painted and glued down most of the roadbed. We're going to wait to glue down the track until we get the new engine and can make sure it runs well with tacked down track first.
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Post by hifibri on Jul 22, 2012 17:14:11 GMT -8
Good luck to you Dutch. Sounds like fun, and reminds me of when I started out 5 years ago.
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Post by Azdusha on Jul 22, 2012 17:54:53 GMT -8
This is a little bit of an old question, but I'm considering doing the same as you, dutch, using my bachmann power pack with atlas track, so I was just wondering- how'd you get the power to run into the track right?
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Post by dutch245 on Jul 23, 2012 3:51:36 GMT -8
As long as you're not afraid of hacking things up, all I did was cut the bachmann connector off of the power pack. Then I just connected the bare wires to some powered terminal joiners. Right now I just have the wires twisted together, I'm going to solder and tape them once I decide where I want my control module.
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Post by dutch245 on Aug 2, 2012 3:18:04 GMT -8
Finally have another update, things have been a little crazy on the homestead as of late. Here's the beginnings of Mount Eros, and on the left of the shot you can see the bridge we scratch built put in place.  |
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Post by Brakie on Aug 2, 2012 6:54:05 GMT -8
Well dutch, with 22" radius curves the largest six axle loco that you'd be able to run and look somewhat okay is an SD7/9, SD35, or an SDL39. Anything longer will look awkward, and will operate just as awkwardly...
Donnell
You can add SD38,SD40,SD40-2 to your list.. The longer SD50,SD60,SD70,SD80 and SD90s will look a tad silly at best. A E unit or PA will work as well on 22" radius curves as well a Trainmaster.. I would avoid long cars like autoracks,86' high cube boxcars,89' flats,full length passenger cars and intermodal equipment in general.. |
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Post by Brakie on Aug 2, 2012 7:03:50 GMT -8
Dutch, The National Model Railroad Association (NMRA) sets the main standards for model trains. It's more complicated than that, but it's a good summary. Anyway, standards of concern to you when you build the bridge is a vertical clearance of 3" above the rail tops and a width clearance of 2 1/16". You can clip the corners some if you need to. To get those dimensions, I'd recommend getting an NMRA clearance gage from your local shop. As a been-there-done-that moment, I'll mention that I built a really nice two stall enginehouse and couldn't get some of my engines in. Great sadness during that learning moment. Ed Ed,One can get by in the hobby without the need to know the NMRA standards since our equipment,tunnel portals,track,metal wheels etc comes already set to those standards. As far as your example sounds like you forgot to check your clearances with a HO scale ruler or a plan plastic ruler- a very common mistakes modelers make. |
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Post by dutch245 on Aug 14, 2012 4:04:08 GMT -8
Morning everyone! Sorry for the delay in updating this thread, we've been having some job issues we're working out. Anyways, here's the latest on mount Eros. It doesn't actually have the yellowish hue to it, I'll take some better pictures during the daylight. Enjoy! imgur.com/a/QdmhR |
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