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Post by Deleted on Jun 25, 2012 11:41:16 GMT -8
In the late 1950's the Cheap & Nothing Wasted had their few Baldwin AS616 re-engined by EMD. CNW wasn't alone in stretching the life of their Baldwins. MKT and EJ&E also had their Baldwin's re-engined by EMD. They are funky looking machines, with their Baldwin sills, trucks, cabs short hoods and the taller EMD engine room. The CNW's AS616m's feature an EMD GP18 long hood.  For the model I'm starting with a dinosaur Stewart BLW AS616. I picked it up on e-Bay along with an old Proto 2000 GP18. The Proto will supply the long hood. The Stewart model's short hood is a little different from the CNW. There is a door in the front of the nose that has to be removed and the number board and class light set up also need to be removed from the Stewart short hood. The walkway "tread" on the Stewart is crude and will be removed. I'm thinking of using some Cannon & Co. bulk diamond plate to cover the walkways. I'll have some photos either later today or tomorrow. |
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Post by onequiknova on Jun 25, 2012 11:49:16 GMT -8
Looks like the CNW had about as many oddities as the Rock Island.
Is the center wheel missing from the front truck in that pic?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 25, 2012 11:50:12 GMT -8
Looks like the CNW had about as many oddities as the Rock Island. Is the center wheel missing from the front truck in that pic? Its hidden by the brake bar. |
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Post by onequiknova on Jun 25, 2012 11:53:18 GMT -8
Duh, I see it now.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 25, 2012 11:58:40 GMT -8
Photo of sister 1561  |
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Post by dti406 on Jun 25, 2012 12:11:56 GMT -8
Nice project, I have started years ago on the NKP's version of the rebuild (AS-16 rather than AS-616) but am doing the ALCO rebuild rather than the EMD. I started with a Stewart but used the Atlas RS-11 body, also need to raise the Baldwin short hood as the NKP had late version AS-16's with the higher short hood. One of the main stumbling blocks is the fuel tank as the Baldwin fuel tank is under the cab, while Stewart used the Athearn drive with the big block of a fuel tank between the trucks which is not there on a Baldwin unit. www.rr-fallenflags.org/nkp/nkp321ads.jpgRick J |
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Post by edwardsutorik on Jun 25, 2012 13:13:32 GMT -8
Rick,
That "missingness" is too much to lose!
I wonder if you could make a new floor and use the Stewart bolsters and trucks. Then mount the motor above the floor. Lotsa old brass drives did this. Then it's clear underneath.
Ed
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Post by KIM on Jun 25, 2012 15:09:39 GMT -8
 One knows they're getting old, when they look at pictures such as these, and their first reaction is, "I remember those!". Be sure to keep us posted of your progress.
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Post by bdhicks on Jun 25, 2012 16:25:08 GMT -8
You might want to try the Archer treadplate decals instead of the etched metal treadplate. I've only tried using the Archer louvres so far, but my experience with the metal treadplate is that it is a bit tricky to work with.
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Post by Mark R. on Jun 25, 2012 19:58:58 GMT -8
Regarding the treadplate ....
The old Bowser units DID have a very coarse treadplate. Order a new walkway assembly from Bowser for one of the latest releases - they revised the treadplate to a much finer, more proto-typical appearance. I recently got one myself to replace an old damaged one and was pleasantly surprised to get one with the revision !
Mark.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2012 3:55:39 GMT -8
Regarding the treadplate .... The old Bowser units DID have a very coarse treadplate. Order a new walkway assembly from Bowser for one of the latest releases - they revised the treadplate to a much finer, more proto-typical appearance. I recently got one myself to replace an old damaged one and was pleasantly surprised to get one with the revision ! Mark. The trouble is a Baldwin long hood is wider than an EMD. So I need a continues piece to cover the Stewart walkway and the little bit of strip styrene holding up the Proto EMD hood. |
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Post by Mark R. on Jun 26, 2012 4:10:36 GMT -8
Regarding the treadplate .... The old Bowser units DID have a very coarse treadplate. Order a new walkway assembly from Bowser for one of the latest releases - they revised the treadplate to a much finer, more proto-typical appearance. I recently got one myself to replace an old damaged one and was pleasantly surprised to get one with the revision ! Mark. The trouble is a Baldwin long hood is wider than an EMD. So I need a continues piece to cover the Stewart walkway and the little bit of strip styrene holding up the Proto EMD hood. Use an old Athearn BB for the long hood and you'll be fine !  .... yup .... just kidding ....Mark. |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2012 4:12:59 GMT -8
The trouble is a Baldwin long hood is wider than an EMD. So I need a continues piece to cover the Stewart walkway and the little bit of strip styrene holding up the Proto EMD hood. Use an old Athearn BB for the long hood and you'll be fine ! .... yup .... just kidding ....Mark. Ohhhhh okay......  I also forgot to add that the BLW hood is square and the EMD is angled so I have to fill walkway due to the angled EMD hood. |
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Post by dti406 on Jun 26, 2012 8:07:16 GMT -8
The NKP also sent two of the AS-16's to EMD for repowering, and here is what they looked like. I really did not like the look of the frog eye numbers boards so I did not want to do that unit. www.rr-fallenflags.org/nw/nw2323dsa.jpgJim, Mont Switzer did both of the NKP units in an article in Mainline Modeler years ago, the articles could be of use to you in the rebuild, if you like I could scan them and e-mail them to you. Rick J |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 29, 2012 4:22:54 GMT -8
A rough in photo. You can see the height difference between the EMD long hood and the BLW cab roof and nose.  The BLW long hood is wider than an EMD. The BLW long hood is also square where the EMD is tapered. Since the tread pattern on the walkways was rugged at best, I sanded the walkways smooth. I then used styrene to extend the walkways inward and filled the rear.  The Stewart model's short hood has a door on the end. CNW's AS616's didn't have this door and I removed it and sanded the nose smooth. The Steward model also has a combination marker light/number board, which the CNW's didn't have, so they were removed. Lastly, the original single beam headlight on the Stewart model is hideous. Remember I'm working with a very early Stewart production run. On the model the headlight stuck out like a sore thumb. My kit is so old it didn't come with and lighting, windows or lens! My solution was simple. CNW 1560 retained its original BLW headlight, although converted to a twin sealed beam. Sister AS-616m 1561, had its original headlight removed in favor of a standard Pyle National twin sealed beam. So I decided to model the 1561 and the Pyle headlight.  Adding the styrene to extend the walkway for the EMD hood was easy. But the EMD hood and the corresponding transition piece that will link the EMD hood with the BLW cab slip behind the rear step boxes original to BLW. This required getting measurements to determine the difference between the width of an EMD hood and the space between the two walkway boxes. Now is when I broke out the calipers. The difference in case anyone is interested is 0.060" of an inch or 0.030" per side.  A final over view showing the added styrene extensions to the walkway boxes and the styrene extensions for the long hood.  |
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Post by fredmoehrle on Jun 29, 2012 4:50:04 GMT -8
The November '97 RMC has a cover article on the CNW ex-MKT AS-16 EMD conversions.
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Post by onequiknova on Jun 29, 2012 9:38:05 GMT -8
Are you planing on reusing the Proto intake and radiator grilles?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2012 4:37:03 GMT -8
Are you planing on reusing the Proto intake and radiator grilles? I have to as I need the GP18 grilles. The owner of the LHS that I frequent has built many of these BLW/EMD AS616 and AS16 rebuilds. The prototype was a staple of Northeast Wisconsin and the CNW fans up here can't get enough. On his builds he uses the original P2K grilles but does modification so they don't stick out like a sour thumb when coming from the factory. I'm doing the parts of the build that I don't need help. When it comes time for the grilles then I'll lean on his expertise. |
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Post by buffalobill on Jul 2, 2012 15:19:36 GMT -8
Jim: Looks this is going to be another of your well executed models.
Bill
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Post by rhpd42002 on Jul 3, 2012 17:54:19 GMT -8
Nice "in-progress" pics, Jim.
I like how it's coming along and appreciate the tutorial.
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Post by craigz on Jul 5, 2012 9:43:53 GMT -8
The grill mod is easy. Don't put the flappy bits behind the grills. The grills will then mount flush to the body.
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Post by fredmoehrle on Jul 11, 2012 8:42:04 GMT -8
Had a chance to read the '97 RMC the other day.
Not only is there the nice article on the AS-16, but the prototype section was on the DRS-6-6-1500!
Nice drawings by Chuck Y. And lot's of color photos.
But none of the AS-616.
Sooo close.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2012 18:17:57 GMT -8
I figured out how to modify the Proto GP18 so the radiator grilles don't stick out like a sore thumb. I added a little strip styrene to the inside of the shell which pushes the radiator "shutters" inward.  It hard to see because of the orange shell, but the grilles now sit flush with the body.  |
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