Ditch lights "how to" thread

[djh4d]

Evening gentlemen. I got enough school work done. So now it's time to knock out some models.

Current project is CSX 2729


Started out as a unnumbered GP38. It got numbered and a white roof. I also removed the duel decoder that came with it and replaced it with a TCS T4-LED. I like TCS because the resisters are already built in. No need to install resisters.

Now, it needs some better headlights and ditch lights.

CSX 2729 has the CSX style slanted ditch lights. I got some from Custom Finishing and they come in a package like this:


I remove the lights with a simple pair of dikes:


Using a file, I filed a nice flat bottom for the ditch lights. I know some folks like leaving a stud so it adds strength to the ditch light. I don't and I've never had one break off (knock on wood).


I then drill out the lenses. I can't remember exactly what size drill bit I use, but there needs to be a small lip for the lens later. Don't forget to clean up the back with the file.


Now I start getting the LEDs ready. I use MONSTER LEDs. Not promoting, I'm just a satisfied customer. I always painted the sides of the LEDs so the light doesn't shine through the housing. It's not important with Custom Finishing ditch lights, but required if I use Detail Associates plastic ditch lights.


You can see that the face of the LED does not have any paint on it and that's what I want.


I put a drop of gel super around the hole on the back of the ditch light and install the LED. Remember to check the front to be sure the the LED is square and facing out. Sometimes it can appear straight until you look straight at it and see it's pointed to one side. Once that's done, I seal it with liquid masking tape so no light will shine out the back.



That's it for tonight, the alcohol is starting to set in and I want to be sure everything dries. This thread may not be for everybody, but having information out there always helps. Feel free to ask any questions or contribute how you do it.

-Dave

[nebrzephyr]

Nice "How To". Anxious to see the next installment. Bob

[stevef45]

any shorting issues with these?

[mrsocal]

Very cool, thank you for the time you spent.

[djh4d]

Sept 6, 2014 18:29:49 GMT -8 stevef45 said:

any shorting issues with these?

Painting the LED leads helps. Just to be sure, I hit the leads with a bit of liquid tape before I install them. I learned this the hard way. 

-Dave

[MONSTERRAILROAD]

Nice LEDs there! I install my own LEDs into my engines and I have never had a short in the ditch light housings for two reasons. #1 I literally dip my LEDs into clear Tacky Glue then insert them into the housing. #2 If the ditch light housing is METAL I ALSO put a couple dots of liquid tape on the ends and let them dry before i dip the WHOLE LED into the Clear tacky Glue.

Now when the ditch light housing is plastic I do not paint the LED ends at all. I simply dip the LED and place them in the housings.

The chances of a short even in a metal housing is not huge (Unless BOTH LED sides are in contact with the metal) so I have no real concern but just to protect my install investment I liquid tape the ends. However I have installed many of the ditch light LEDs into OMI metal housings without painting the ends but still dipped them in my Clear Tacky Glue and they are all mostly fine EXCEPT I do have one engine with a ditch light out and it could be due to the short or anything. I actually do not even know for sure that it is one that I did not paint (liquid tape) the ends.

Anyways - I am the manufacturer of the Monster LEDs so EVERYONE should expect that I speak highly of them. However, as a consumer I made my LEDs to be so so good that they would be the best out there. I did not want to make cheaply done LEDs for myself. I started making these for myself and have always done them to a higher standard. I am so in love with my own LEDs because I know they are great, they look dammn good too! The price is PERFECT and as time goes on I keep providing more and more pictures of how to install them into many models. I assemble my LEDs with much care so as a user of my own LEDs I KNOW that they really are the best out there. But do not take my word for it.

Thanks!

[djh4d]

Ok, I've put this off long enough. Time to finish this puppy.

I painted the ditch lights housing. CSX paints theirs gray with a silver lens cover. The M.U. plug is painted red because it's a live connection. The dummy plugs are green.


I make my own lens. Using extra fiber optic from Al's kits, You can slightly melt them with a lighter and it forms a lens. The longer you hold it to the flame, the larger the lens. Somewhere on this forum there's a "how-to".


Here's the LED for the headlights. I can get away with using one on each end on this model.


Installing these are pretty straight forward. I trim the cover so it's flush with the end of the fiber optic and super glue in place.


In the mean time, I got the decoder installed. I also solder all the connecters in the trucks. Overkill? Perhaps. But, I don't want problems in the future.


I got all the wires hooked up. Remember, LED are polar sensitive. The common has to be hooked up to the common on the decoder otherwise it won't light. With MONSTER LEDs, red is the common.


I then heat all the shrink wrap so that way all the solders are isolated and nothing will touch and short out.


Taking care not to break any wires, the shell is placed back on the chassis.I then glue the ditch lights in their final position. I wait till this step so that way I can see what way the light is shining and I can adjust so it's shining on the tracks.


The couplers are reinstalled and now the loco is one more step closer to being put into revenue service. There are a few more things I need to do, but these will come later.


I hope that you guys got something out of this. Again, I know that it's not for everybody. However, the principals used can be applied to any LED application. Any questions, comments, or complaints are welcome.

Thanks for reading.

-Dave

[talltim]

Very useful, thanks