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Post by grabbem88 on Oct 17, 2014 9:46:31 GMT -8
I almost got my rutland rs3 done but I think I'm over thinking my lights..
I'm running class/marker lights in front and rear should I run these as a seperate function ..5/6 or run them on one function but switch the leads to make them directional?
These are pretty bright so I need them seperate from headlights so I can dim them some
This will be done on a select direct esu decoder btw..
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Post by Mark R. on Oct 17, 2014 11:07:01 GMT -8
If you have the extra functions available, I would place each end on its own function as only the lead end would be on during operation. You can program them to be directional, but to be directional, they still need to be on a separate function for each end.
You can easily adjust the brightness down using CV settings without having to add additional resistors.
Mark.
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Post by grabbem88 on Oct 17, 2014 12:51:13 GMT -8
That's why I over shot my thinking forgot no matter on the function pads the lights are either on or off not directional unless I use them with the headlight pads...
Now are class lights really directional from end to end? Or they were left on?
I was going to color them but they just didn't look right so I have them white only.... They look like spot lights but really cool looking spot lights...
No beacon or ditch lights or step lights just class and headlights for this rutland #402...
Sad deal that the real one is parked out back in Michigan somewhere broke down..
So I applied some things off the #405 that's still running
Couldn't find the right bell so I'm using the under the frame bell. Anyways thanks Mark I knew I was thinking to hard
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Post by Mark R. on Oct 17, 2014 12:58:16 GMT -8
On real engines, there is no such thing as "directional lighting" - that was a gimmicky thing the model manufacturers devised. On a real engine, there are separate individual switches for turning these on/off. They just turn on the end that is required. If you want to be proto-typical, I would do the same and put each end on it's own function as a steady light - not directional. The class lights wouldn't necessary go out just because you were making a short reverse move .... and the rear would definitely not be turned on.
That being said - IF the engine was running light or being used as a helper, they may very well be lit on the rear with a red lens inserted to be used as a marker light. Different railroads, different rules ....
Mark.
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Post by grabbem88 on Oct 17, 2014 13:08:11 GMT -8
Would time periods effect this as well??
Being that rutland last rule was in the 50's
Trust me I wanted these to be colored but I don't think bi-color leds are made small enough yet?
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Post by grabbem88 on Oct 17, 2014 13:13:37 GMT -8
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Post by Mark R. on Oct 17, 2014 13:19:23 GMT -8
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Post by grabbem88 on Oct 17, 2014 14:08:14 GMT -8
Well I never seen those... I got 1000 .603's so I went with those..
Yes I hollowed them out and they are precision scale brass round style
But those .603's are a tight fit and broke a few so at 30.00 bucks for 10 I'd be pissed if I messed one up..
I will keep those in mind though since I have a h15-44 rock island that has class lights with bi-color 3mm leds already installed but are very dull..
This was an experiment to say the least since most just add jewels and call it a day... Adding leds in class lights was a step up in my skills test
Personally I just can't wait to install this 539T..this will be my first esu rsc1 and those speakers I bought from digi sound just as good as the dumbos but they call them foxes.
My first wooden enclosure I made for these I had the magnet +\- side out where I see people do the opposite and have the seal side out..it blew my qsi 15x36 out the water and that shocked me..
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Post by mlehman on Oct 18, 2014 0:02:15 GMT -8
A narrowgauge colleague of mine, Laurie McLean, has a number of videos on working with SMD LEDs, including making working class lighting, that may be helpful. These two give you the basics. |
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Post by grabbem88 on Oct 18, 2014 2:34:38 GMT -8
Those videos is what got me to try it out and his speaker tests as well
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Post by grabbem88 on Oct 18, 2014 2:35:11 GMT -8
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Post by mlehman on Oct 18, 2014 10:20:10 GMT -8
Those videos is what got me to try it out and his speaker tests as well Cool  , just wanted to be sure you had his advice available. Me? I admire such work, but it's beyond me. Eyes too weak, hands too shaky. But Scoop's advice and encouragement helped give me confidence to learn to do sound installs in brass. |
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Post by grabbem88 on Oct 18, 2014 14:51:49 GMT -8
Omg!! I have always dealt with Eric fiske at Tony's exchange and he was out so I figured another guy can't possibly screw up a 539t... Well I was wrong. I only get one horn no notching what so ever and sounds nothing like a 539 244  This sounds like a digitraxx sound bug generic file... |
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Post by grabbem88 on Oct 19, 2014 8:05:57 GMT -8
I'm still trying to figure this out... Don't these shops double check their work??
Cv48 is 03. One bell function
All sound functions are not even on here no clank pssst clunk nothing
It starts up and has an engine noise but unreconizable
It does not notch or anything
This really bugs me
And yes I reset it
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Post by Mark R. on Oct 19, 2014 8:23:12 GMT -8
Sounds like you got a blank decoder - they have a bare minimum generic sound as a test install, but are essentially blank. Sounds like he just shipped you the decoder without actually installing the sound file. What is the product number on the box ?
Mark.
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Post by grabbem88 on Oct 19, 2014 9:01:32 GMT -8
It's 74411 over 7300 covered up which is the blank right?
This is my first time ever paying $116.00 bucks
After 20 decoders this is higher than any...I ever purchased..
And on my paper work it says rs1
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Post by Mark R. on Oct 19, 2014 9:44:31 GMT -8
For starters, you bought a version 4.0 decoder. The Select version costs considerably less. Unless you have a LokProgrammer and plan of doing a lot of customization, the 4.0 decoders are a waste of extra money.
Mark.
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Post by grabbem88 on Oct 19, 2014 9:57:54 GMT -8
Understand that but I was getting them before this one less than you'll ever get a tsunami decoder for so all in all it was worth the price...
Atleast on the bright side all I have to do is pull the micro board off and send it back instead of pulling all my wires off a board or sending a whole engine in risking damage from mail carriers..
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Post by Mark R. on Oct 19, 2014 10:57:38 GMT -8
Something isn't making sense .... based on your comment of "pull the micro board off", that tells me you got a Loksound Select Direct (Atlas style board), but the file you referenced (74411) is a 4.0 file. You can't load a 4.0 file into a Select decoder. (?)
Mark.
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Post by grabbem88 on Oct 19, 2014 11:16:07 GMT -8
Lol see my point somehow this Lewis guy fubarred everything
I normally deal with Eric but he's always "out" so dealt with this guy...
I think from now on I'm going to buy the programmer and deal with Matt only...
He has a faibanks file I wanna try out but not going to deal with Tony's bunch with it.
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Post by grabbem88 on Oct 19, 2014 11:51:16 GMT -8
On a good note though my lights look great and not too bright.
My enclosures worked pretty good with no distortion fuzz or over powering even wired at 4ohms!
I blew that horn so long and so many times and the speakers sounded strong and not over worked..
So I'm happy about that.
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, just wanted to be sure you had his advice available. Me? I admire such work, but it's beyond me. Eyes too weak, hands too shaky. But Scoop's advice and encouragement helped give me confidence to learn to do sound installs in brass.