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Post by Deleted on Jul 8, 2012 14:05:48 GMT -8
While I wait on parts for other builds, why not start on something else, until the unavailability of parts puts it on the shelf.....  So far the biggest headache is the blanking of the dynamic brakes. The step wells are also modified and the chopping of the nose is a fairly large task. Other than that, its an easy build.   |
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Post by calzephyr on Jul 8, 2012 20:24:13 GMT -8
While I wait on parts for other builds, why not start on something else, until the unavailability of parts puts it on the shelf..... So far the biggest headache is the blanking of the dynamic brakes. The step wells are also modified and the chopping of the nose is a fairly large task. Other than that, its an easy build. That is a nice looking unit with a few changes from the norm. Larry |
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Post by rhpd42002 on Jul 9, 2012 16:10:29 GMT -8
Jim, that sure looks like some challenging "fun"!!  Just a thought, would it be practical to "blank" out the dynamic brakes by filling them with modeling putty? |
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Post by Donnell Wells on Jul 9, 2012 23:07:43 GMT -8
The thing about putty is any cracking or sinking that may occur due to difefferent material expansion rates. In order to fill seams in plastic, my first choice is plastic.
In most instances, I use scrap plastic from whatever model I'm building and make a putty (or paste) by disolving bits of the plastic in some solvent. I then apply the plastic putty to the seam and let it dry. Once dry, I sand it smooth. In case there are any sink holes, just repeat the process. The neat thing about this method is that becasue you are using the same plastic from which the shell was made, the resultant patch/plug/fill is almost undetectable when finished!
Donnell
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Post by buffalobill on Jul 14, 2012 13:58:55 GMT -8
Jim:
Are you starting with a Proto, or the new Genesis unit? I did a Conrail GP-10 years ago from a Front Range kit, that had blanked out D/B's. I shaved the inlet grids down, then installed a styrene plug, and sanded. Luckily, I had a couple of extra D/B hatches, as I botched the first one.
Based on past models, you will do an excellent job.
Bill
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Post by Deleted on Jul 14, 2012 14:09:26 GMT -8
Its a Proto.
I had purchased a Genesis model to strip, detail and paint. After seeing all the holes drilled into the shell for the factory detail parts, the "liberal" use of glue from the factory to hold said parts on the shell and ZERO parts, should I break a window, etc. from Athearn....I sold the model on e-Bay. Too much risk and I couldn't see a favorable outcome with any stripping attempts.
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Post by buffalobill on Jul 14, 2012 14:23:07 GMT -8
Jim:
I looked at a friends NYC Genesis GP-9 with the thought of stripping it and repainting it BN. Way too much work, and as you point out its very high risk. I too passed, and now they have announced the BN's. I will get at least get 3 of the 4. I saw your comment about the steps being wrong. But I can live with that. If I am lucky they will do a run of former GN GP-9's later on.
Bill
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Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2012 18:31:50 GMT -8
Got some work done on the long hood and the chopping of the nose. I'm replacing the molded radiator screens with Plano GP7/9 screens and Plano GP7/9 radiator shutters which are not yet available in stores. First here is a photo of the blanked dynamic area and the Plano radiator shutters and screen installed. You can compare how much nicer the model looks with the Plano parts versus the molded on factory parts.   Here is a photo of the nice etched radiator grilles from Plano  This fret is the rear radiator shutters. The pieces bend over to form the shutters. You bend the shutters out before bending in half. After you've joined the two halves you can model the shutters open or closed.  A photo of the shutters installed in the model.  Photo of both the forward and rearward radiators converted to the Plano Models shutters and grilles. Now the P2K model looks even more Genesis like.  A photo of the unit with the blanked dynamics and the nose chopped. A P2K GP20 cab is standing in until my Atlas SD24 cabs arrive. The Atlas cab is better than the P2K.  More of a close up of the chopped nose. The tape on the nose is my "whoa line". When dressing and leveling out the cuts you need to know when to stop! ;D  |
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Post by onequiknova on Jul 15, 2012 19:00:31 GMT -8
Those Plano grills look real nice. According to their website, those shutters may never be available. Too bad, they look good. How did you get your hands on them?  |
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Post by buffalobill on Jul 16, 2012 18:10:51 GMT -8
Jim: From the looks of it you have a winner there. Very nice job.
Bill
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Post by Deleted on Jul 31, 2012 16:04:48 GMT -8
Finished some more of the unit. The nose is done!  The cab is an Atlas SD24 cab. I still need the part to turn the front window into a two piece window.  Rear photo.  |
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Post by buffalobill on Aug 3, 2012 14:13:07 GMT -8
Jim: Great job on a nose "Only a mother could love". Makes me want to do another BN GP-10.
Bill
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Post by rhpd42002 on Aug 4, 2012 13:32:36 GMT -8
Excellent work, Jim. Another winner in the making.
What did you use to "blank" out the dynamics? It appears to be thin, sheet styrene.
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