RCPE SD40-2 3421 Build #2
Apr 2, 2015 0:55:36 GMT -8
onequiknova and Great-Northern-Willmar Div like this
Post by stevef45 on Apr 2, 2015 0:55:36 GMT -8
While waiting on 1, 1 single Plano part to finish my other RCPE SD40-2 build i started on another one. Best part of this one is not having to buy any parts for it.
Here is the prototype being modelled.
Life started as an Athearn NS SD40-2 high hood that I had purchased about 6 years ago or so to make into NYSW 3020 which was just blanked out and patched. About 3 months ago or so, NYSW scrapped the prototype 3020. So with that being srapped I decided to in essence scrap my 3020 and resurect it into another RCPE unit, #3421.
First order of business was to strip the shell down to bare plastic. This was a little harder than I had planned since I only had 70% alcohol. Paint would not budge even after several hours. Finally went out and got a new bottle of 91%. Within minutes the factory paint and floquil I had brushed on were coming off.
Fully stripped of factory paint, floquil and decals. High hood was already popped off carefully if anyone needs it.
I was also test fitting the exhaust silencer on this DB hatch and after gluing it in place realize it was the DB hatch. FML
Test fitting a Cannon cab/subbase/88" short hood. This was all assembled set that I had put together for another model that turned out needing a 81" short hood. I found out the hard way after gluing it all together.
Proper DB hatch put back on with silencer, this came from my tunnel motor I built years ago that I gave to my son which ended up blowing the motor.
Going through my small parts bin I was looking for the proper sized tread plate for the front and rear sills when I found the steps from my NYSW model that i used the tread on only. I didn't do the steps so those steps were used on this model.
And that same NYSW SD40-2 had its radiator screens replaced with Cannon ones and since Cannon includes 2 per pack, I had a spare set for my RCPE unit which had the chicken wire versions. No pics of of the cutting process.
I glued the Cannon cab down. I'll probably add some stifening joints to it to make sure it doesn't come off. I'll be going over the trucks to see if I need to add roller bearings to any and will add some more details this week.
Here is the prototype being modelled.
Life started as an Athearn NS SD40-2 high hood that I had purchased about 6 years ago or so to make into NYSW 3020 which was just blanked out and patched. About 3 months ago or so, NYSW scrapped the prototype 3020. So with that being srapped I decided to in essence scrap my 3020 and resurect it into another RCPE unit, #3421.
First order of business was to strip the shell down to bare plastic. This was a little harder than I had planned since I only had 70% alcohol. Paint would not budge even after several hours. Finally went out and got a new bottle of 91%. Within minutes the factory paint and floquil I had brushed on were coming off.
Fully stripped of factory paint, floquil and decals. High hood was already popped off carefully if anyone needs it.
I was also test fitting the exhaust silencer on this DB hatch and after gluing it in place realize it was the DB hatch. FML
Test fitting a Cannon cab/subbase/88" short hood. This was all assembled set that I had put together for another model that turned out needing a 81" short hood. I found out the hard way after gluing it all together.
Proper DB hatch put back on with silencer, this came from my tunnel motor I built years ago that I gave to my son which ended up blowing the motor.
Going through my small parts bin I was looking for the proper sized tread plate for the front and rear sills when I found the steps from my NYSW model that i used the tread on only. I didn't do the steps so those steps were used on this model.
And that same NYSW SD40-2 had its radiator screens replaced with Cannon ones and since Cannon includes 2 per pack, I had a spare set for my RCPE unit which had the chicken wire versions. No pics of of the cutting process.
I glued the Cannon cab down. I'll probably add some stifening joints to it to make sure it doesn't come off. I'll be going over the trucks to see if I need to add roller bearings to any and will add some more details this week.
