|
|
Post by JohnJ on Jan 19, 2016 13:25:10 GMT -8
I did a forum search on this subject and didn't turn up much. Just wondering what the overall consensus here is for using Future Floor Polish (now rebadged as Pledge Floor Finish) for adding a gloss decal prep surface for models. A Google search turned up everything from a site that touts Future as a cure-all for just about everything model related, to others who think it goes on too thickly or otherwise are unimpressed with it.
I did a test shot on an old hopper car this afternoon, and am impressed so far with the results - but it's early in the process. I still want to decal it and finish it off with some Dullcote. This is all in prep for decaling my prized Wright Trak Penn Central N7 caboose - I've spent many hours on this model and would hate to screw it up this late in the game during the decaling process. I did note what I think may be a couple of air bubbles in my test, so I may do another junk car to see if that's a common occurrence. Any other feedback any of you all may have will be appreciated.
Also, in terms of applying Testors Dullcote and Glosscote with an airbrush, how much have you folks been thinning these? The reason I'm even playing around with the Future is that I got unsatisfactory results during the clear coat phase of my last model - rough finish. I'm wondering if the thinning might have been part of the problem.
One suggestion I got off the aforementioned Internet site that was so complimentary of the Future product is using a mix of Tamiya flat finish and Future to get a dull finish. Anyone tried this approach?
|
|
|
|
Post by steveturner on Jan 19, 2016 14:14:07 GMT -8
I would stick to model products.Something i was thinking about which concerns many products today....................have the formulas and ingredients of products changed.This could have a huge bearing on the outcome or ratio mix of the materials you use. I am sure some paints have changed or it seems that way.Future polish does it not yellow with age ? Old school mixing of brands may not be the same today. Many water born products today.The harsh chemicals that gave us great finishes and working time are now or it seems a thing of the past. Our lungs are breathing a sigh of relief LOL.Steve.............Tamiya flat finish and primer is excellent.
|
|
|
|
Post by tom on Jan 19, 2016 14:31:03 GMT -8
I used Future Floor Finish once but I was not happy with it. It did spray fine and the finish appeared good it did not seem to interact with the decal solution very well. It was a couple of years ago so I do not remember the specific problem. Strange since I do use acrylic clear finishes w/o any problems. I used to use Polly Scale Gloss but now I use Testors CreateFX gloss.
I also use the Testors CreateFX acrylic dull finish but I still prefer Dulcote mixed 50/50 with automotive laquer.
-Tom Haag
|
|
|
|
Post by kentuckysouthernrwy on Jan 19, 2016 15:03:49 GMT -8
I've used Future a couple of times, the gloss finish was fine. However, when I started putting decals on the water and setting solution caused it to cloud up. After it dried it was ok but I didn't find it terribly impressive. I felt it was a bit thick.
|
|
|
|
Post by TBird1958 on Jan 19, 2016 16:17:06 GMT -8
I did a forum search on this subject and didn't turn up much. Just wondering what the overall consensus here is for using Future Floor Polish (now rebadged as Pledge Floor Finish) for adding a gloss decal prep surface for models. A Google search turned up everything from a site that touts Future as a cure-all for just about everything model related, to others who think it goes on too thickly or otherwise are unimpressed with it. I did a test shot on an old hopper car this afternoon, and am impressed so far with the results - but it's early in the process. I still want to decal it and finish it off with some Dullcote. This is all in prep for decaling my prized Wright Trak Penn Central N7 caboose - I've spent many hours on this model and would hate to screw it up this late in the game during the decaling process. I did note what I think may be a couple of air bubbles in my test, so I may do another junk car to see if that's a common occurrence. Any other feedback any of you all may have will be appreciated. Also, in terms of applying Testors Dullcote and Glosscote with an airbrush, how much have you folks been thinning these? The reason I'm even playing around with the Future is that I got unsatisfactory results during the clear coat phase of my last model - rough finish. I'm wondering if the thinning might have been part of the problem. One suggestion I got off the aforementioned Internet site that was so complimentary of the Future product is using a mix of Tamiya flat finish and Future to get a dull finish. Anyone tried this approach?
I spray Testors Dullcote and Gloss often. You can cut it 50/50 with Automotive Lacquer - I prefer Dupont 3602 or 3661 as they flash off fast an give very consistent results. When spraying Glosscote I usually mix it a bit heavy 70/30 and get a good coat on your model, follow up immediately by shooting some clean lacquer over the top of it with the gloss residue still in the paint cup. This re-heats the Glosscote and brings it up to a high, smooth gloss - perfect for decals. I always gloss factory painted models as first step to weathering them.
|
|
|
|
Post by Mark R. on Jan 19, 2016 18:03:06 GMT -8
I use Model Master Metalizer Sealer for a gloss coat. This little known product to model railroaders is water thin right in the bottle and requires no additional thinning for spraying. Sprays smooth and dries to a high gloss - it's all I use for gloss clear ....  Mark. |
|
|
|
Post by dtinut on Jan 19, 2016 20:48:13 GMT -8
I have used Future/Pledge, and it works well if you give it a try...
I use it to "fix" scratched glass (plastic windows), and glue them in place also. Nice for gluing headlight lens into place as well.
I spray it thinned with 70% Isopropal Alcohol, maybe 40:60, and it works well for me.
I have also used it to 'thin' acrylic paint (Pollyscale and craft paints). On nice thing about using it as a thinner, it adds gloss to the finish, so it removes one of the paint steps.
It does tend to cloud a bit when it isn't fully cured when decaling, but clears up when it has dried out.
Price-wise - it's really cheap, as I have had same bottle for 10years now, and maybe used 1/6 of it.
YMMV
Brian
|
|
|
|
Post by Christian on Jan 20, 2016 3:01:50 GMT -8
I've used it for nearly thirty years. At that time I discovered that military modelers had already been using it for several years. That's decades of modeling experience. My very first use was on a white Santa Fe flat. It's still white, thirty years later, side by side with a sheet of 98 brightness paper. Thick? You've got to be kidding. (Or using a very old bottle.) It's thin like water which is it's chief advantage over other gloss acrylic paints. (Future, now Pledge is nothing more than an acrylic gloss clear coat.) You can spray, brush or dip. It drains and levels into a coating suitable both under and over decals. Then use what ever other clear coatings you wish. (It will "bloom" with Champ or old Walthers decal setting solution.) Brian indicated uses as adhesive and as an extender for diluting craft paints. I have tried mixing with the Tamiya flat additive and saw no reason to repeat the experiment. The Tamiya talc was problematic for me. If a Forum search isn't turning up much on Future/Pledge, you are looking in the wrong place. Try any military modeler site. And while you are on that military site go ahead and collect twenty (!) new modeling and weathering ideas.
|
|
|
|
Post by gtws00 on Jan 20, 2016 5:33:58 GMT -8
Christian,
What do you mean when you say "It will bloom with Champ or old Walthers decal setting solution"?
Thanks
George Toman
|
|
|
|
Post by markfj on Jan 20, 2016 6:01:19 GMT -8
Hello Group,
Well, I just sprayed a completed resin boxcar kit with Tamiya Clear (X-22) and wasn’t too happy with the results. The surface is only “slightly” glossy and seems blotchy in spots. The overall finish is smooth, but definitely not a high gloss. At this stage, I don’t want to apply another coat of anything, so I’ll just apply the decals on the Tamiya clear and hope for the best.
I know that many model builders (cars & airplanes) use Future as a final coat.
@ Mark R: Do you spray that Model Master sealer over enamel or acrylic paint? I’ll give that a try if it plays well with acrylics.
Thanks, Mark
|
|
|
|
Post by dtinut on Jan 20, 2016 11:13:58 GMT -8
George, It will cloud up/blemish/bloom because the fluid applied is strong enough to soften the finish. I have seen this happen when the future is still fresh and using Microscale setting solution as well. But once left to cure goes away. Brian Christian, What do you mean when you say "It will bloom with Champ or old Walthers decal setting solution"? Thanks George Toman |
|
|
|
Post by stevef45 on Jan 20, 2016 22:00:05 GMT -8
I use Model Master Metalizer Sealer for a gloss coat. This little known product to model railroaders is water thin right in the bottle and requires no additional thinning for spraying. Sprays smooth and dries to a high gloss - it's all I use for gloss clear .... Mark. Mark, will this clear go over any type of paint, floquil, trucolor? |
|
|
|
Post by JohnJ on Jan 21, 2016 8:59:03 GMT -8
Thanks for all the info and replies, good stuff - sounds like there are opinions on both sides! Christian, you are right, there is a ton of information on other forums on Future; my comment was directed at this site and model railroading. Seems like the military modeling folks are big fans of Future. My test went well. I gave it 48 hours to dry, and ended up with a smooth finish. There are a few blemishes that very well may be dust I didn't clean off - I hope they aren't air bubbles. I found that the Micro-Sol and Micro-Set didn't appear to mar the finish, but full-strength Solvaset did. I think I may move forward with Future for my PC caboose and see where the chips fall. I really hate shooting lacquer-based products like Dullcote or Glosscote, as I don't have a spray booth and it's far too cold to paint outside now. It may have to be a necessary evil when I get to the Dullcote stage. So here's the test model - you can see I insist on 100% prototypical accuracy, even when doing a test application like this. Overall view of the application - I used Micro-Sol and Micro-Set on the PC worms and numbers, and Solvaset on the "Everywhere West" slogan. These are Microscale decals.  Closer view of the worms - again, the setting solution here was an initial coat of Micro-Set, followed by several applications of Micro-Sol:  And finally, the "Everywhere West" slogan, which got a heavy-handed application of Solvaset. You can see the damage to the finish clearly.  |
|
|
|
Post by davidmbedard on Jan 21, 2016 13:32:31 GMT -8
I've been down the various gloss coat offerings...even the Future route...but I've settled on Alclad Aqua Clear gloss.
|
|
|
|
Post by Mark R. on Jan 22, 2016 17:49:58 GMT -8
I use Model Master Metalizer Sealer for a gloss coat. This little known product to model railroaders is water thin right in the bottle and requires no additional thinning for spraying. Sprays smooth and dries to a high gloss - it's all I use for gloss clear .... Mark. Mark, will this clear go over any type of paint, floquil, trucolor? I've used this over everything. Water base, solvent base and TruColor. I just like the fact it requires no thinning. Whatever is left in the airbrush, goes right back in the bottle. Mark. |
|
|
|
Post by stevef45 on Jan 23, 2016 8:58:07 GMT -8
Mark, will this clear go over any type of paint, floquil, trucolor? I've used this over everything. Water base, solvent base and TruColor. I just like the fact it requires no thinning. Whatever is left in the airbrush, goes right back in the bottle. Mark. AWESOME! I ordered 2 bottles. Just need to get me a small table for working on my stuff and i can't immediately start painting and finishing everything. |
|
|
|
Post by edwardsutorik on Jan 28, 2016 17:32:18 GMT -8
John,
I just now had a read on this topic.
Re: the damage on your "Everywhere west". I don't have the model in front of me, and you do. And it's kinda hard for me to really see it. BUT. That stuff towards the bottom of the decal does look to me like the glue the can escape from under a decal. IF that's what it is, it washes off with water and a very soft brush. Ya gotta do it before you overspray, though.
Ed
|
|
|
|
Post by JohnJ on Feb 1, 2016 7:44:50 GMT -8
Ed, I really do think the Solvaset affected the finish. You can't see it in the photo, but there's an area where it looks like the finish actually melted a bit. This isn't a big deal; I simply won't use Solvaset on the model (the Micro-Sol seemed to work fine, so I'll go with that). I went ahead and shot the caboose with Future (well, Pledge), and it looks good. Unfortunately, the decals supplied with the kit disintegrated when put in water, so I've had to wait for replacement decals that I now have in hand. Having the Penn Central Historical Society present at the Amherst show was a big help in this department, as they have the right set. If I get some time today I may try to get the decal job complete.
Incidentally, speaking of disintegrating decals, I experimented with coating the decal sheet with Future before applying the decals to see if that would fix the problem. I let it dry for 48 hours and applied the test decals to the car. They held together great, but unfortunately when I came back in a few hours, I found the decals had shriveled into an unusable mess as they dried.
|
|
