Atlas RS-1 and DCC Lights

[ashpit]

I have converted an Atlas RS-1 to DCC using a Digitrax DH123D decoder.  One day, the headlight started flashing and then just quit altogether.  I wanted to add Back EMF and so have replaced the DH123D with a DH166D.  I also have purchased from Atlas LED lights to replace my burned out bulbs, (whatever it was that Atlas supplied the loco with).  With the LEDs, do I need to include resistors in the light Circuits?  

[mlehman]

The verbiage about the Function output states this:

Most Board Replacement decoders have LEDs for forward and revese lights wired to F0 Forward and F0 Reverse.

Unless this is board replacement decoder, you will need resistors (and may still need them if it's not clear on a drop-in board packaging.) If it's plug and play, you're probably good if there is reference to that. If it's a generic decoder with just wires to connect, even if it has a 9-pin or other plug, you'll need the resistors. If not obvious which it is, probably best to contact Digitrax.

[Tom]

Mar 15, 2016 3:08:15 GMT -8 ashpit said:

I have converted an Atlas RS-1 to DCC using a Digitrax DH123D decoder.  One day, the headlight started flashing and then just quit altogether.  I wanted to add Back EMF and so have replaced the DH123D with a DH166D.  I also have purchased from Atlas LED lights to replace my burned out bulbs, (whatever it was that Atlas supplied the loco with).  With the LEDs, do I need to include resistors in the light Circuits?  

The 166D is a series 6 decoder, so it has a selectable output for LEDs (no resistors needed).  Just be sure the correct algorithm is selected, and as Mike said, depending upon how you have it wired in.  Fortunately, they have it pretty well documented.
As per thir notes: If you are using LEDs, the first digit for CV62 should be 0.

For function output:
www.digitrax.com/products/mobile-decoders/dh166d/

Which generation of RS-1 is it?

[canrailfan]

Ashpit,

Do the LEDs supplied by Atlas have a resistor attached already? This may just be a small tubular bump covered by heat shrink tubing on one wire attached to the LED. If this is the case you can connect these LEDs directly to the decoder.

Otherwise you do need to add resistors (680 - 1,500 ohm, 1/4 watt) between the LED cathodes (-) and the yellow and white wires. LED anodes (+) go to the blue wire. See page 22 of the Digitrax Decoder Manual (http://www.digitrax.com/static/apps/cms/media/documents/documentation/Decoder_Manual_V2-01_2014.pdf).

What tmurray is referring to is that Series 6 decoders have FX3 lighting algorithms that are selectable for either lamps or LEDs. This makes the lighting effects appear the same whether you are using lamps or LEDs.

Hope this helps.

David

[ashpit]

No the LEDs do not have resistors attached. I have resistors to connect, just wanted to know if they where needed, thanks all!

Mike is that really a photo of you?

[mlehman]

Yep, when I was little younger and more handsome.

Taken by my wife at the Colorado RR Museum in Golden while I was doing my best Casey Jones pose.

[canrailfan]

Mike,

You have the look of a real hogger, just need a little more dirt on your shirt and hat!

David

[mlehman]

I had the look, but not the eyesight unfortunately. Kept me out of pilot school, too.

[ashpit]

Mike, I have installed 8-10 motor decoders in both steam and diesel locos and have started a few sound decoder installations in steam locos. One, an MDC Harriman Tenwheeler with a Digitrax SDX064D which only provides sound; so, has to also have a motor decoder. I have worked on this one off and on for more than a year and have talked with Digitrax many times and just can't seem to be able to determine why this set-up will not work! This was my first attempt at sound decoder installation. The fact that it has stymied me is why I am hesitant to try again!

The above is not what I want to contact you about, only showing my experience with sound decoder installations. At present, I have started another installation, a Brass PFM Northern Pacific Y-1 Consolidation, with a TCS decoder and Soundtraxx speaker. I am just tarting, I know the stall current is below the amperage of the motor and I am building a baffle box for the speaker. I also have a Soundtraxx swivel connector for the tender to loco connection. If I get stuck, would you be willing to lend a willing ear to help me? Would also be willing to listen to other experts here. I know, this is not an Atlas product and if I have made a major fo-pah here, maya coulpa!

[mlehman]

Oh, not problem, be glad to help. Things here are not Atlas specific, just that's the community that moved here after Atlas shut down its forum. Anything goes that's model RR-related.

Can't say I've done any dual-decoder installs. What I know about them is that you have to enable the lock that is typically on CV 15 and 16 for one decoder, program the other decoder, lock it, then unlock the other decoder and program it, the lock it. I'm sure there's some nuances to how that works. If I can't help, there are some good folks here with plenty of DCC experience who I'm sure will also be glad to lend their advice.

I assume the Soundtraxx swivel connector is the same item as used on the Blackstone K-27? If so, that should get most if not all the circuits needed between the loco and tender.

[ashpit]

It's their P/N DBX-9000 Locomotive-to-Tender Wiring Kit. Mike do you know if Soundtraxx' 810131, Large Mega Bass Speaker needs to be installed in a box or Baffle as some like to call it?  (After some research, I found that a baffle is made for enclosing the 810131 speaker, so I have gone ahead and built a wood speaker enclosure for this loco). 

What does the RESCUE in the Atlas "RESCUE" Forum mean?  I had heard that the old ATLAS Forum had been shut down due to rancor within the ranks.  Does the new name have something to do with that problem?

[canrailfan]

Hi Mark,

The old Atlas Forum (AF) was shut down for primarily economic reasons, Atlas stated it was taking significant resources to monitor and support the forum. To their credit they have left the AF available online to this day so that modellers can access the old posts for research purposes.

Donnell set up the Atlas Rescue Forum to "rescue" all us then "homeless" users of the AF and I think he deserves a great deal of credit for his work in making this forum the success it is. It has become every bit as popular as the old AF, attracted many of the well-known contributors from the AF, and sometimes gets just as contentious as the old AF (which is not a bad thing).

I hope you'll find a home here as well.


BTW, you might want to set up a signature block to let everyone know your interests, etc. I only found your name and interests by seeing your message in the Welcome forum.

[mlehman]

Mar 17, 2016 8:58:50 GMT -8 ashpit said:

It's their P/N DBX-9000 Locomotive-to-Tender Wiring Kit. Mike do you know if Soundtraxx' 810131, Large Mega Bass Speaker needs to be installed in a box or Baffle as some like to call it?  (After some research, I found that a baffle is made for enclosing the 810131 speaker, so I have gone ahead and built a wood speaker enclosure for this loco)...

That should work.

I tend to believe in enclosures, although if you read Bruce Petraca's DCC column in MRH, he doesn't. But essentially he does, because he seems to use baffles. What's going on? Well, a ported enclosure is best, although sometimes one that's not ported works well. What porting does is allow the sound to escape out the back, as well as from the front. This generally aids lower freqs more, as they are less directional. There more to it, but probably can find some of that by searching for "ported speaker enclosure" for general theory, etc. Gotta get back to the diss.

[mlehman]

Had a few minutes, so looked around and found this, a decent explanation of several approaches to enclosure design for speakers.
www.danmarx.org/audioinnovation/theories.html

I tend to take the "if it feels good, do it" theory of speaker enclosure design, along with a pinch of "make it fit." With model RR equipment, there's usually a minimum of space to make things work, so you do the best you can.

[ashpit]

Thanks Mike!