Atlas Custom Line switches and motors?

[ldbennett]

I just bought six Atlas CustomLine switches and their correct switch motors. A couple of them when mounted with the provided motors don't fully close the points against the rail when operated manually. The wheels of the train probably (??) will push them fully closed. No amount of pushing or shoving on the switch motors in their mounting groves on the switches will make the points fully close with pressure against the rail. (Since the motor is a momentary thing you would think a detent or spring to hold the points closed would be needed.) Without the motors installed the points fully close just fine so it is the motors that are limiting the points. Will electrical activation of the motors fix the problem?

Is this normal?

Is the solution to bend the point (gently!) to get the points up against their rail?

And yes I know there are better switches and below the layout motors but for several reasons I can not use them. I just need to make these switches and motors operate adequately.

Another question:

I am planning on using momentary single pole double throw toggle switches to activate the switch motors instead of the Atlas controllers. Is that a problem?

LDBennett

[riogrande]

I've used Atlas turnouts in my layouts and I don't recall if they were custom line but I can say I have had minor issues with the points not closing fully using the Atlas switch machines. The little wire that moves the points doesn't have a great deal of tension so you have to be sure the points are very free to swing. Basically it may take some tweaking unless you go with a Tortoise or Switchmasters matchin with a lot of tork

[el3637]

Is it normal for Atlas turnouts to be junk?

Yep.

I won't use them. I know they've made some improvements, but IIRC the "Custom Line" is just their tried and not-so-true Snap Switch which dates to the 1950s, with numbered frog angles.

If you must... I'd at least recommend a switch motor that puts more pressure on the points than the microscopic wire of the Atlas motor.

Andy

[Deleted]

The plastic throw arm on the Atlas motor is the fault along with the switch. If anything is slightly off in the manufacture of either, you are screwed.

You can't bend the points. You can or will pop the points out of the throw and at that junction....the switch is trash. Also bending the point will pull the switch out of gauge.

The motor could be at fault. Not all these motors are created equally. Some are strong as an ox and could throw the points on a prototype switch. Others barely can move themselves.

There is a reason Atlas calls their switches "Snap" switches, because under most circumstances, the Atlas motor and the "loosey goosey" Atlas switch points SNAP when thrown. If you are not SNAPPING when the points are thrown......they will never snap as you can't adjust the motor in regards to the switch as the motor either snaps or attaches directly to the switch.

First, exam the switch without the motor. If that throw rod doesn't move with complete ease, the junky Atlas motor will NEVER work properly. The rod can drag on the roadbed and this is enough to screw up everything. Cut a trough in the roadbed under the throw rod if necessary to guarantee no friction.

Second, if the switch throw rod is free, then look at the motor. If it doesn't throw easily and smoothly then there could be something wrong with the motor. If you have a second Atlas motor that is for that type of switch, give it a try. No two Atlas motors are created equally......I speak from personal experience.....

Third, after you've made sure the motor is good and the switch is as good as it can be.....power the motor and see if it SNAPS the switch under power.

[riogrande]

Yes, more torque helps, esp for switches that are stubborn. While some may call Atlas switches "junk", they can be made to operate well and reliably and if you are not made of money like I wasn't as a grad student, they do the job. I used all Atlas #6 turnouts on my garage layout and I did follow the recommended fine tuning that articles in MR recommended, which included filing the points to bevel them from the side and also at an angle - the made it much less likely for a flanged wheel to pick the points. They worked very well. The only down side which you cannot really correct is they do have a large gap where the wheels jump over the frog, so you get a "pothole" effect where the wheels drop down and back up as they cross the gap.

[steveturner]

Besides all the points provided one has to remember to use a power supply with good amperage. Voltage here is not the trick but only part of the equation.You need at leat a 1 amp power pack to give a good kick. Of course this does not help the short comings of Atlas switches. Atlas switches for some reason are junk, funny because most of their products are very good. Locos, stuctures, cars and flex track all grade one but switches they are bad enough to turn folks off of the hobby! Steve

[ldbennett]

The switches seem to operate manually better when the track is secured to the plywood table. We'll have to see how they work when electrically operated by the topside Atlas switch motors.

Here's a heads up: Don't use the Atlas 2540 Track Nails if you expect to nail the track down to plywood. They bend over super easy. A better choice is wire nails, 19 x 1/2 inch. They are a lot stronger yet the same diameter. But there is a catch. The box I have is decades old and new ones (from China, I assume ??) may be weak too. I have to go out tomorrow and buy some more as I don't have enough to complete the job. Hopefully OSH has American made ones (??).

LDBennett