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Post by steveturner on Oct 31, 2012 18:09:44 GMT -8
Guys i picked up a brand new kato NW2 for 40 dollars at train show. Geepers creepers what a nightmare to put a decoder in. The loco was a deal especially when i see what they are going for but to install a decoder is no cheap deal patience and work wise. Anyone done one of these ?. Some helpfull hints on TCS site as aguy did an install so thats helpfull.. I have never seen an Ho loco put together like this one. I will let you know how it goes. Had it for a while just got the urg today to tackle it. Getting the shell and cab off , what a fishing expedition that was!!! So you had any finicky decoder installs?.My first split frame. This unit seems tobe popular, better be a good runner after all this work. Keep you posted. Steve
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Post by mlehman on Oct 31, 2012 21:28:25 GMT -8
Steve, I chop 'em up to build HOn3 roadswitchers. When I do that, I eliminate the taper in the car body, so that gains me a little more room for the decoder.  That's the first one, a little rough, but it'll outpull anything on the line. The TCS guide is pretty good. Easiest thing to do is to take a cut-off wheel in the Dremel and cut grooves for the wires in the body casting. This includes any extra wires running on top, as the shell fits tightly there, too. Just route them carefully so they come out between the chassis halves where you need them to emerge. Use Kapton tape as needed to keep the wires in the grooves and it goes pretty well until you have to shoehorn the decoder in. Getting the shell off is the toughest part for some. If you've done that, you'll be OK on the rest. |
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Post by steveturner on Oct 31, 2012 23:06:42 GMT -8
Looking good there! Well i got shell off, milled out for decoder , instead of using the long copper brass pickup strips i have hardwired pickup wires to the trucks.........the brass journals have those centre points to slip on wire connectore so i soldered to the insde of them. Those little round nubs that hold shell on well i half filed them down so shell sits snug in place but can be removed.Some guys file them right off , but then you have nothing holding shell. Enough for tonight.tomorrow i need to file frame for feeder wires from trucks. I wired it up and ran it! not too bad, no lube whatsoever in this unit. Took some pictures so i will post later.Like most kato goods, its precision fit but quite the design.Heavy for sure as the whole inner shell is frame and weight. One question the brass /copper retainers for the worm gears how snug should those be, they are kind of springy in place?Steve
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Post by mlehman on Nov 1, 2012 3:09:31 GMT -8
SNIP One question the brass /copper retainers for the worm gears how snug should those be, they are kind of springy in place?Steve I left the clips as is from the factory. If they seem loose, maybe snug them up a bit? Otherwise, works just fine as is for me. |
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Post by atsfan on Nov 1, 2012 5:34:43 GMT -8
This engine is an older design pre DCC installed days.
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Post by cf7 on Nov 1, 2012 6:02:58 GMT -8
I have done 6 of these. The installation is not that difficult. Sorry I don't have any pics, but here is what I did after the mechanism was apart...
!. Next to the headlight board, I cut off the front of one side of the frame so an N scale decoder will fit up and down;
2. Roughly measure the length of the motor wires and solder them to the motor brush holders;
3. Put the mechanism back together while taking care not to pinch the motor wires;
4. Mount the decoder on the modified frame and solder the black and red wires to the correct sides of the headlight board;
5. Test to make sure the loco runs in the proper direction;
6. On the headlight board, the trace that supplies track power directly to the LED (NOT the one with the resistor), needs to be cut so track power cannot be fed directly into the LED. Solder the white decoder wire to the LED side of the cut.
7. If you want to wire the rear light, cut the LED wipers so they do not contact the frame and solder the yellow and blue wires to the shortened wipers.
8. The remaining wires need to be placed in the slot between the 2 frame halves and the ones that won't fit, need to be placed as flat as possible so the shell will fit all the way down.
That's it! Not too bad.
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Post by rockisland652 on Nov 1, 2012 7:09:00 GMT -8
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Post by steveturner on Nov 1, 2012 7:56:33 GMT -8
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Post by steveturner on Nov 1, 2012 8:11:20 GMT -8
  Picture of motor with motor wires soldered to shortened motor contact strips. Strips as short as possible then covered in kapton tape.Plus close up of worm gear housing, quite different. Note the round spacer in front of worm gear, this insulates the two half frames. Nice to see a full size motor when quite often you see a small motor in some switchers plus good use of the whole area within shell for a heavy unit. Use of meter often used to check if there was continuity which would result in a short. Pretty precision so it it only goes back together one way.Steve |
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Post by craigz on Nov 1, 2012 17:12:25 GMT -8
Sweet barking cheese. Attachments:
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Post by steveturner on Nov 1, 2012 18:51:04 GMT -8
Thats one wicked install. Nice to have milling equipment i would say.Very impressive install. Pictures gave me idea for my truck wire routing.Thanks.Steve |
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Post by bnsf971 on Nov 3, 2012 4:19:29 GMT -8
Steve, did you try a Z scale decoder in this?
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Post by steveturner on Nov 3, 2012 8:19:07 GMT -8
The picture with my decoder in is a TCS M! decoder a real small decoder i believe rated for N or HO. Its a decoder i have used in shays and my Spectrum 060 and generally fits the tightest spaces for HO. Size has come along way in terms of decoders. In the old days you would pull your hair out figuring how to get a decoder in units. Steve
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