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Post by sd40dash2 on May 9, 2019 4:30:26 GMT -8
Also, I see that CP failed to mask the remaining windows prior to applying Dullcote to their model. 
They're plastic, Lexan I believe, and were hazed and crazed up so bad 20 years ago one couldn't see out of them. Saw a couple with 12 gauge slugs embedded in them.
Not FRA 223 glazing?
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Post by thunderhawk on May 9, 2019 7:31:26 GMT -8
They're plastic, Lexan I believe, and were hazed and crazed up so bad 20 years ago one couldn't see out of them. Saw a couple with 12 gauge slugs embedded in them.
Not FRA 223 glazing?
Well, they stopped a 12 gauge slug so I'm guessing they were FRA legal. I assume the Lexan was cheaper than the laminated glass used in locomotives. |
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Post by sd40dash2 on May 17, 2019 5:12:14 GMT -8
The SOO painted version is now showing as sold out. I assume there is no chance of Walthers fixing the lettering at this point. How easy is it to remove Walthers lettering without damaging the paint? I am hoping to avoid a full repaint. the old Micro-Set (or is is Micro-Sol) trick might work on that.
After receiving my caboose, I attempted this trick last night and it did indeed remove the incorrect lettering. But, you need to be careful as it also has the ability to remove some of the white paint if you spend too much time with the Solvaset. The black ink leaves quite a mess so timing is key. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Jun 1, 2019 7:01:36 GMT -8
Does anyone here have any experience with trying to strip the paint from this model? It seems to be laughing at the 70% bath method that worked on a Mainline bay window last year.
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Post by nsc39d8 on Jun 1, 2019 7:18:16 GMT -8
I always use 91% isopropyl, 70% usually doesn't cut much. The 91 does good on Atlas, P2K and even the newer Kato's. I did a BNSF 'Swoosh" SD40-2 and it came out clean!
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Post by roadkill on Jun 1, 2019 11:27:40 GMT -8
I always use 91% isopropyl, 70% usually doesn't cut much. The 91 does good on Atlas, P2K and even the newer Kato's. I did a BNSF 'Swoosh" SD40-2 and it came out clean! I second this, Walthers paint just disappears with 91%. |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Jun 1, 2019 12:59:09 GMT -8
OK thanks. I did the 99% thing and within a few minutes the white paint came off easily, except where the pad printing was. The only way to remove that was the solvaset and eraser thing. Also the red on the roof is stubborn and would require more time in the bath. I decided to leave it as it isn't causing any problems at this point. The paint on these shells is different to past Walthers items as it previously didn't put up this much of a fight.
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Post by roadkill on Jun 1, 2019 15:35:57 GMT -8
You can leave a styrene shell in 91% for, well, forever  as isopropyl alcohol will not attack it. Leave the shell in there for several days and I'll bet it'll take care of the red roof and the lettering. |
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Post by Baikal on Jun 1, 2019 20:18:19 GMT -8
I always use 91% isopropyl, 70% usually doesn't cut much. The 91 does good on Atlas, P2K and even the newer Kato's. I did a BNSF 'Swoosh" SD40-2 and it came out clean! I second this, Walthers paint just disappears with 91%.
You can get pints of 99% online or ask a pharmacist to order it. Es mas macho.
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Post by sp8299 on Jun 3, 2019 2:12:37 GMT -8
You can leave a styrene shell in 91% for, well, forever as isopropyl alcohol will not attack it. Leave the shell in there for several days and I'll bet it'll take care of the red roof and the lettering. That's been my experience in all the years I've been dunking with 91%, though I had something odd happen a couple weeks ago, when I dunked a P2k (pre-WKW) GP60, BNSF. It hit the tank since it's destined to become one of the EMD Demo units; I put the shell into a large Ziploc bag, poured in enough 91% to cover, squeezed out excess air, and left it to marinate for a couple of days, no different from anything else I've dunked. Came back to scrub at it with a toothbrush, and was surprised to see some of the celcon parts...handrails, and dynamic brake intakes...badly warping. The rails were severely warping inward, and the dynamic intakes were warping so badly, one literally popped out of the housing (grill was bowing outward like someone was pinching it between their thumb and forefinger). No big loss on either, since I was going to bend new rails, and the entire D/B housing was replaced with a 3D printed Phase I housing, but it was the first time I'd seen alcohol attack plastic.
Interestingly, the only other celcon parts on the model, the dynamic and radiator fans, came through just fine. |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Jun 14, 2019 18:00:42 GMT -8
The new red paint is dry and I am at the decalling stage. The 3 online photos of SOO 94 are all of the same side. Does anyone have any prototype photos of the other side of this caboose? Decals are cut and ready to apply but I would prefer not to guess at what the opposite side looks like. Thank you in advance.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 15, 2019 4:42:11 GMT -8
The new red paint is dry and I am at the decalling stage. The 3 online photos of SOO 94 are all of the same side. Does anyone have any prototype photos of the other side of this caboose? Decals are cut and ready to apply but I would prefer not to guess at what the opposite side looks like. Thank you in advance. Still in original Soo paint? Here’s one thats the opposite side of what’s on RR Picture Archives. flic.kr/p/23ZAu1u |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Jun 15, 2019 6:03:42 GMT -8
^ Thank you for responding. I had not seen that photo showing what 94 looked like just before it was repainted. What a mess! But no, the model I am building is of the current red repaint. Turns out there is a photo of the opposite side posted but I couldn't find it due to keyword mismatch. Here is the photo I was looking for, in case it might help anyone else. flic.kr/p/2gekcMeBack to the decals! |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Aug 6, 2019 4:45:24 GMT -8
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Post by riogrande on Aug 6, 2019 4:54:35 GMT -8
Nice review and of course, it's always nice to see more versions of cabooses offered . I didn't see any info it that model matches anything other than the Soo delivery mentioned.
It will be interesting to see what the upcoming Genesis EV caboose will be correct for - fingers crossed.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 6, 2019 6:16:53 GMT -8
Most likely it is only a match for the SOO caboose. With cabooses, every railroad had different specs for window placements.
For entry level or those that do not put a lot of attention to fine detail, this caboose is a great model. It looks nice and I like the separately offered wire detail kit. At least they put dimples for drilling. For the SOO Line modeler, this is a great starting point for a detail project. The only drawback are the windows.
It would be nice if AMB will make laser cut windows for it. There is a reason why the windows are like this on models. It is because of the draft angle for the mold to pull apart. Windows have to fit from the outside in order for them to fill the opening properly. Inside fitting windows cannot do that.
CJ
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Post by riogrande on Aug 6, 2019 6:22:03 GMT -8
Yes. That would be my assumption too. I'd assume by omission, the other road names are only stand-ins.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Dec 7, 2022 7:42:37 GMT -8
Another run of these cabooses was announced in Dec 22.
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Post by slowfreight on Dec 8, 2022 15:03:07 GMT -8
I second this, Walthers paint just disappears with 91%. You can get pints of 99% online or ask a pharmacist to order it. Es mas macho.
I found it sold as fuel stabilizer, clearly marked as 99% isopropyl. |
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as isopropyl alcohol will not attack it. Leave the shell in there for several days and I'll bet it'll take care of the red roof and the lettering.
