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Post by valenciajim on Nov 10, 2020 12:24:18 GMT -8
I just wanted to say how much I have enjoyed reading this thread. Thanks to everyone for your contributions.
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Post by champagnetrail on Nov 10, 2020 12:55:24 GMT -8
Your kits look super cool, but I have to admit to being super-intimidated. How does one put together the sides without warping something? Is there a particular technique I should practice before attempting to build a boxcar like this Not Dave, but stay tuned. The instructions and input from everyone who has built one of the Cannon and Co kits stress the need to keep the sides under weights until you can add stiffness on the back. See Tim's comment above. I recall comments from folks who did not keep things under weights stating that they should have followed instructions. I'm fortunate in that I have boxcar side size weights. But they are simply a luxury. A scrap of wood and a can of chili would be enough. I've been keeping the sides under weight since I started working on them because I can. They are much flatter than they came out of the box. Take a look at this week's Sunday Foto Fun. Tbird1958 (Mark Hills) leads off with one of his Cannon builds. If I didn't have a thing for waffle sides I would have chosen one of the Precision Design cars. They are really something different from what's out there in other kits and RTR. Having never built a kit like this before, I think my problem is a lack of basic understanding about how to glue the sides together. Pardon my ignorance.
So, let me get this straight...you put the sides together like a sandwich and put a weight on top of it, and then let the glue wick in-between the layers of the sandwich?
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Post by TBird1958 on Nov 10, 2020 12:58:30 GMT -8
Not Dave, but stay tuned. The instructions and input from everyone who has built one of the Cannon and Co kits stress the need to keep the sides under weights until you can add stiffness on the back. See Tim's comment above. I recall comments from folks who did not keep things under weights stating that they should have followed instructions. I'm fortunate in that I have boxcar side size weights. But they are simply a luxury. A scrap of wood and a can of chili would be enough. I've been keeping the sides under weight since I started working on them because I can. They are much flatter than they came out of the box. Take a look at this week's Sunday Foto Fun. Tbird1958 (Mark Hills) leads off with one of his Cannon builds. If I didn't have a thing for waffle sides I would have chosen one of the Precision Design cars. They are really something different from what's out there in other kits and RTR. Having never built a kit like this before, I think my problem is a lack of basic understanding about how to glue the sides together. Pardon my ignorance.
So, let me get this straight...you put the sides together like a sandwich and put a weight on top of it, and then let the glue wick in-between the layers of the sandwich?
Close, you set the sides up against your stops then glue using a liquid cement and a small paint brush, then put the weight on.
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Post by Christian on Nov 10, 2020 15:17:53 GMT -8
Having never built a kit like this before, I think my problem is a lack of basic understanding about how to glue the sides together. Pardon my ignorance.
So, let me get this straight...you put the sides together like a sandwich and put a weight on top of it, and then let the glue wick in-between the layers of the sandwich? It's not ignorant if you haven't done it or seen it done. Tomorrow or Thursday I'll get to that stage. Prepping parts takes a long time. But that is almost finished. Everything I've done so far is step one of the instructions. Step two is actually laminating the sides. One layer at a time using MEK and a small paintbrush. Working one post at a time across the side. Then the second layer - same process. My postings get so wordy because I show you everything. Even things that don't work so well. Such as the post coming later this evening.
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Post by Christian on Nov 10, 2020 15:47:49 GMT -8
Cannon & Company Northern Pacific Boxcar Kit Well, that didn’t go so well
The good news is that I finished cleaning and beveling the sides. MEK tomorrow. Only one photo since there isn’t much to see. In the photo are two things. The first side which I cleaned and beveled with the knife seen in other posts. Yep. Three pieces. It won’t cause any problems nor be visible as I move on. But stuff happens when your attention drifts. I got too excited when I had the waffles done and was doing the plug door. Oops. Two minutes later: oops #2. The other thing is the photo is a seam scraper from Citadel. Military modelers have a whole bunch of tools pretty much unknown to model railroaders. Scraping seams is a common technique in assembling plastic kits. There are many varieties of scrapers out there. I chose this one because of the curves. It was pricey and one of those dumb purchases. Yes, a knife scrapes straight, flat seams just as well. This scraper also does curves and hard to reach areas. I’ve actually used it quite a bit, but had forgotten it until now. Even though it was sitting just above my work area since the start of the project. Looking back, it is in four photos. Mixed results. On the face side with the waffles, it was no faster nor better than the knife. It was a big improvement on the back side which has serious ridges. The single edged razor blade didn’t do a very good job. (Which really means Tucker didn’t have the patience to do a good job.) The seam scraper did a good job and I went back and cleaned up the first side. If I didn’t have the scraper I might have chosen a stiffer blade than the single edge razor. I just didn’t think this through very well. No broken parts on the second wall. I think I am ready for step two of the instructions which starts laminating the parts.
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Post by champagnetrail on Nov 11, 2020 13:19:53 GMT -8
Having never built a kit like this before, I think my problem is a lack of basic understanding about how to glue the sides together. Pardon my ignorance.
So, let me get this straight...you put the sides together like a sandwich and put a weight on top of it, and then let the glue wick in-between the layers of the sandwich? It's not ignorant if you haven't done it or seen it done. Tomorrow or Thursday I'll get to that stage. Prepping parts takes a long time. But that is almost finished. Everything I've done so far is step one of the instructions. Step two is actually laminating the sides. One layer at a time using MEK and a small paintbrush. Working one post at a time across the side. Then the second layer - same process. My postings get so wordy because I show you everything. Even things that don't work so well. Such as the post coming later this evening. OK. Cool. I'll try to hold my questions until I see more steps. Maybe I just need to see a YouTube video or something...
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Post by Christian on Nov 11, 2020 14:14:33 GMT -8
Cannon & Company Northern Pacific Boxcar KitReasons there is no new modeling post today
House chores. Gray, rainy, dreary weather Cleaned up cat vomit Actually progressed, just not done with photos and write-up Talked Jason Shron into posting on Atlas Cleaned up cat vomit Stayed up really late last night reading On-line shopped for Wife’s birthday Cleaned up cat vomit Did dishes Worked on supper Cleaned up cat vomit Changed cat food One of these is a lie!
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Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 11, 2020 17:41:22 GMT -8
^ Life happens. No big surprises here but lots to be grateful for in that you have no infections given what's happening in the world right now. Stay safe and just post when you have a chance -- looks to me like most/all here will appreciate what you have to share.
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Post by riogrande on Nov 11, 2020 18:23:27 GMT -8
Probably #5 is a lie. I tried.
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Post by TBird1958 on Nov 11, 2020 19:46:19 GMT -8
Cat vomit.......I can relate! My little tiger killed a mouse and ate it......Predictable result.
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Post by riogrande on Nov 11, 2020 19:49:27 GMT -8
Cat vomit.......I can relate! My little tiger killed a mouse and ate it......Predictable result. We have cats. Spot Bot takes care of cat barf!
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Post by Christian on Nov 12, 2020 5:31:04 GMT -8
Cannon & Company Northern Pacific Boxcar Kit Anticipation is keepin' me waitin'
The next posting, later today, will have actual gluing! Lots and lots of time building models is getting ready to do something. Preparations are commonly passed over in YouTube modeling videos because it is really boring. Folks loose patience because the video isn’t getting to the point. Cooks use the French phrase, mise en place. Crudely translated it means “getting your act together.” What I’m getting ready to do is to laminate the sides of this boxcar. I’m actually following the directions which are quite inclusive of how to do this lamination. I have made substitutions of tools and methods where it fits what I have and what I know how to do. David Hussey’s instructions for this job have five steps which contain both suggestions and information about what might at first glance be problems. Let me give a bullet list extracted from those instructions and then I’ll show the photos of how I did the first and second steps. • Provide a straight edge. • Tape down the straight edge and the first layer. • Align the second and then third layer parts and cut them into pieces if necessary to account for laser shrinkage and/or stretch. • Glue them together a layer at a time with a volatile solvent. • Put them under weight over night. Photograph one shows the try-square I used for the straight edge and the scrap of ply to hold the blade which is set into the stock. Photo two is the weight I used to hold the blade in place and will later use to weight the parts over night. Photograph three shows the stuff I’ll use in the next steps. The first and second layer of the side. A 5 ought paint brush and a touch and flow applicator to apply the solvent material. An adhesive dot applicator. This is modern double sided tape and found in the scrap-booking section of your favorite craft store. Repositionable dots in the blue applicator is to be preferred. Hopefully I’ll find mine before doing the second side. Photo four shows the reason for the tape. The base layer has a bow despite being under weight for better than a week. A dry run showed that I couldn’t get good alignment with the bowed first layer and the wavy second layer which is on the weight. Photograph five shows the roller of the applicator and I think you can see the adhesive dots. They are very thin. Photo six is the line of dots along one edge for the side piece. Photograph seven shows everything pressed down to the plywood. It isn’t perfect. Glass would have been better. But see my comment about what I have and what I know. Next up: actually building stuff. Wow! Don’t miss it!
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Post by simulatortrain on Nov 13, 2020 4:57:56 GMT -8
Thank you for your very detailed posts on this kit. I always enjoy seeing builds of these Cannon cars, and I've got the non-waffle version stashed away to one day be built as a BN car.
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Post by Christian on Nov 13, 2020 10:45:40 GMT -8
Cannon & Company Northern Pacific Boxcar Kit Laminations: A Start
Finally I can hear you say. Yep, It’s glue time. David Hussey in his instructions calls for MEK as the solvent to weld these pieces together. That would be my choice also, except I’m running low on MEK. Locally I can only find one and five gallon cans. And they are pricey. So I tried Microscale’s Micro Weld. Milky bottle with green lettering. Non toxic, environmentally safe, and safe for thin plastic among other claims. I followed the Cannon & Co instructions for this first lamination. Lots of photos since I think some of this is new to a few folks. You old timers can move aside and let other folks see. Photograph one shows the parts in this step layed out. I started with the broken pieces. And then discovered that (following the instructions) I would have needed to break them apart any way to keep things centered over the length of the side. I rubbed green pigment in a streak across the side so that I could better photograph the etched lines. I know from experience that this won’t have an effect on MEK. Photo two shows my MEK bottle and the Micro Weld bottle. I knock things over so the Micro Weld is in a scrap of packing foam. The MEK bottle is pretty stable. Photograph three shows me positioning the center section of this layer. In photo four you can see me holding down the part right where I’m going to apply the MEK. Shown is an embossing needle which didn’t grip well enough. I used one of my yellow handle knives for the remainder. Essentially, hold the part, apply MEK with a 5/0 brush, hold a moment, proceed to the next intersection. I know you are going to get tired of photos of those iron weights. Photograph five was taken as I got ready to take a break. I always keep weight on the sides and will continue doing so until later in the project when I add 1/4” square bracing on the back. Photo six illustrates the left side under way. I have not yet done the long posts at the far left. My 5/0 spotting brush didn’t carry enough MEK for the long strokes so I used a 5/0 liner for that. In other words, the more MEK you need, the bigger the brush. Photograph seven. Yep. Took another break. Photo eight show the Touch and Flow applicator I used on the right side. It is a fourteen cent darning needle stuck into a twelve dollar stick. Yes, you can make your own. It is sold as a CA applicator. In my experience it is lousy for that use. It is fine for applying a dot of MEK. I’m hard at work in photograph nine. On this side I used the Micro Weld. It worked fine and I’ll likely use it for the rest of the project. I use the applicator to put a dot at every intersection. I followed up with my 5/0 liner on the long posts. And, here is photo ten as I get ready to put the weight on this completed layer. I’ll continue on this side with the top layer in the next episode. Narrator:Is this the end of Bullwinkle J. Moose's bachelor days? Will Rocky the flying squirrel save his friend in time? Boris:Will i ever go to normal toilet again? Narrator:Tune in next time for Another Fine Moose You've Gotten Me Into or The Man In The Iron Moose!
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Post by Christian on Nov 14, 2020 16:43:08 GMT -8
Cannon & Company Northern Pacific Boxcar Kit Errata: Before the previous step I found my removable double sided tape roller and decided that I’d better pry up the side before gluing any ribs. I slid a single edge razor blade along the top and bottom and the side came off the plywood with ease. BUT, all the glue dots remained on the Cannon & Co part. So I decided to remove the adhesive. It wouldn’t rub off and alcohol didn’t do anything. MEK has some interesting properties when working with polystyrene sheet and milled shapes. It welds together pieces when they are in contact. But, it doesn’t leave a mark like common plastic glues. Molded polystyrene, on the other hand, is badly marred by MEK. To make a long story short, I knew that I could use MEK to wash off the adhesive so long as I didn’t get too frisky. I used a rag moistened with MEK and scrubbed off the adhesive. The surprising result was that the side piece was now super flat. No, I don’t recommend that as a modeling technique! I applied removable tape and proceeded as seen in the previous build posting. Parts Is PartsNew stuff. I didn’t get a lot done today. But I did get a start on the top lamination. As you might recall the top lamination had a deformed post and I broke off parts of the plug door. Since then I lost one of the broken pieces from the plug door. Photograph one I staged before actually doing any work. I used a caliper to measure for the replacement post and door parts. Well, it was interesting. Instead of the 0.010 thickness I expected the top layer measured 0.013.” I checked in several places. I have a huge supply of Evergreen polystyrene strips, but not any 0.013.” Further, the post and door parts were not a common Evergreen strip width. Being about 0.035” wide which, I'm guessing, is the prototype width of the posts. At the time of this photograph I decided on using 0.015” X 0.030” strip for the door and HO scale 2 X 3 for the post. I came to my senses and put the caliper away. My eye told me that 0.015" X 0.030" strip looked OK for both. Photo two is the area right of the doors. As in the lower layer I had to cut this layer apart to fit. At the time of this photograph I had not glued the top chord since I didn’t want it to stick to the steel square edge. This photo also shows a problem. The posts are not long enough. They should come to the weld line of the side sill. These posts not only miss, but the tips are rounded which means that they will be even shorter when I square the ends and cut the 45 degree bevel. At this writing I’m not sure what, if anything, I’ll do. I did give a few seconds thought to replacing the laser cut parts with strip. Nope. Not going to do that! The final photograph shows things as they are right now. (under a weight) I’ll trim the new post after it is in place. I’m going to use pieces cut from the old post to replace both vertical members of the plug door. So far most of the photographs have shown the working area toward the center of my bench top. This is because that is a better location for photos. This photo shows where I’m actually working. Close to the edge. I use an office chair in the lowest position so that I am not hunching over my work. Bigger things are built further back and with a “normal” chair height.
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Post by Christian on Nov 15, 2020 5:07:22 GMT -8
Cannon & Company Northern Pacific Boxcar Kit Finishing the side for now
I finished laminating the top layer. Photographs one and two show the results with some extreme side lighting. I wish I had done a better job with the plug door, but this is my first go with a Cannon& Co boxcar. Once all the bric-a-brac is on the door the sloppy work that I see will not be so obvious. Everything is under iron again in photo three. The piece in front with the row of holes is actually the back of what has been done so far. But, before I laminate that piece I am going to do the other side of the car to this point. Since I am posting in real time it may be a couple days before the next installment. That installment will pick up with the laminating of that back piece.
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Post by wp8thsub on Nov 15, 2020 10:45:33 GMT -8
I wish I had done a better job with the plug door, but this is my first go with a Cannon& Co boxcar. Once all the bric-a-brac is on the door the sloppy work that I see will not be so obvious. You should be fine. It's difficult to judge the finished product based on how a bunch of styrene looks at this stage. I wondered if my examples would look awful as well, but was pleasantly surprised by how they turned out after painting.
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Post by slowfreight on Nov 15, 2020 10:46:46 GMT -8
I wish I had done a better job with the plug door, but this is my first go with a Cannon& Co boxcar. Once all the bric-a-brac is on the door the sloppy work that I see will not be so obvious. You should be fine. It's difficult to judge the finished product based on how a bunch of styrene looks at this stage. I wondered if my examples would look awful as well, but was pleasantly surprised by by how they turned out after painting. I'll second that. Somehow the flaws start to disappear once painted.
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Post by cannon on Nov 15, 2020 18:22:03 GMT -8
Christian, great job so far. All the rest of you out there in TV land note, he is tackling probably the most difficult kit with the .010 thick layers and the extra beveling required. Don’t let it scare you off.
Keep up the good work Dave Hussey Cannon and Company
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Post by Christian on Nov 18, 2020 12:13:42 GMT -8
Cannon & Company Northern Pacific Boxcar Kit Clean UpDid ya miss me? I did glue up the other side, but then got the lazy’s. After all, this is a hobby, isn’t it? Today I cleaned up the sides. The next steps will be the backing layer and the bracing. But cleaning up what I’d done was today’s project. Photograph one show one of the several places where MEK and/or Micro Weld just didn’t stick. The Tamiya cement is good stuff, but it triggers asthma for me except in small, occasional uses. For this I didn’t use the Tamiya brush. I used my 5/0 that I seem to be favoring for this project. Photo two is removing the side from the plywood. I slid a single edge razor under which didn’t flex the side very much. Photograph three uses a weird lighting angle to shows the glue dots on the back. Photo four is my finger rubbing off the dots. Photograph five is during the installation of the replacement posts by the plug door. And a glue down I missed. Photo six. OK, those short posts. The rounded tips have to go. And I won’t show my model to anyone who would know about those posts. Besides, some photos of the prototype show posts that seem to be short. I lined up a steel rule and weighted it so that the cuts would be the same. The end posts are different and will be cut when the ends are fitted. Photograph seven and eight shows the trimming. I started using a single edge razor blade but it and my fingers didn’t fit behind the weight. So I chopped off the tips with my Hasegawa chisel. Photo eight is the chisel in action and photo nine is a beauty shot of the chisel. I won’t go into detail since we exhausted Hasegawa chisel topic last summer. Every so often I go on a lint and cat hair hunt. Photograph ten is an example. Finally, I used some filler putty to fill the cuts in the side members. Since filler is a religion I won’t spent any more time on that topic! Next up: Heading out back.
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Post by cannon on Nov 18, 2020 14:53:02 GMT -8
Christian You should not have to worry too much about the gaps in the last photo. The door tracks hide that.
Dave
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Post by slowfreight on Nov 18, 2020 19:35:57 GMT -8
I'm telling you, none of those defects will be noticeable. Even the rounded bottoms disappear after weathering. And at the primer stage, you'll be able to fix anything noticeable.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 18, 2020 19:56:37 GMT -8
^ Digital cameras reveal everything!
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Post by Christian on Nov 19, 2020 3:00:08 GMT -8
You should not have to worry too much about the gaps in the last photo. The door tracks hide that. I'm telling you, none of those defects will be noticeable. Even the rounded bottoms disappear after weathering. And at the primer stage, you'll be able to fix anything noticeable. ^ Digital cameras reveal everything! " Perfectionism" is a difficult affliction. Yes, I should KNOW better. But the gut FEELING still dominates. It's the cold light of dawn now and things do look better.
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Post by Christian on Nov 19, 2020 6:50:28 GMT -8
Cannon & Company Northern Pacific Boxcar KitAttaching the Back LayerStep seven of the instructions. How time flies! Only fourteen steps to go. It is time to attach the back layer to the beauty side. The roof has a small gap before the sides. In the instructions Hussey calls for a 0.020” square piece of styrene as a spacer. I seem to the fresh out of that size so I substituted a length of 0.020” wire. Things didn’t start off very well. Before I laid out the pieces shown in photograph one I took a lick around the edges of the sides. Not to take anything off, just to smooth out glue bulges. I fitted the parts to the tri-square and then, following directions, I tacked along the bottom edge with Micro Weld. Then I used a larger brush to flow Micro Weld into the holes. When things felt firm I lifted the side away so that I could flow some MEK along the top edge. Photo two shows things after I pulled a rescue. Yep, the parts had slipped. Rather then stop and take a photo I grabbed my single edged razor blade and sliced apart the joint. This photo shows the glue marks. Not much damage. Whew! (Yep, cat hair) Photograph three is back to the beginning with a bit of tape holding the wire and with more care on my part. I know from experience that the second time around the Micro Weld wouldn't grab so I reached for the Tamiya cement and my albuterol inhaler. Using the Tamiya brush I dabbed along the bottom edge then laid/slid the parts into the jig. After a quick inspection I used the Tamiya brush to dab lots of the cement into the circles. The result is in photo four. After the Tamiya cement had grabbed I lifted out the part and flowed MEK along the top joint. The sides went back under the weights as I moved on to the next step. (Yep, cat hair)
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Post by Christian on Nov 20, 2020 4:44:02 GMT -8
Cannon & Company Northern Pacific Boxcar Kit By the Dawn’s Darkness
I do much of my model building before 6:00 am. Yep, I’m one of those persons who can actually jump out of bed and get going in darkness. On the Atomic Cafe Build I got several days ahead of the postings. That meant that I could slack for a day. Or fix something that I didn’t want to show. This time I’m building, photographing, and then writing the section of the build I just finished. Here is this morning’s chapter. Step eight of the instructions has you prepping the Kadee doors and installing them. I did the prep, but I am not installing them until later since I want to keep the face flat for one more session with the weights. Photograph one shows the back of the Kadee doors and the rail cutters I used to cut off the nubbins. Photo two shows the backs of the doors sanded and ready for installation later. I turned to the bracing on the backside which should keep things quite flat. Hussey’s instructions call for 0.25” square Evergreen Styrene. Not in my stockpile. (Hummm, how did that happen?) But I did have 0.10” X 0.25” which has the same stiffness on the 0.025” axis. So, that’s what I used. A couple of lengths are shown in photograph three. This size is beyond what I’m comfortable cutting with a knife. It’s Zona time! Because my Zona blade is not as tall as the X-Acto saw blade intended for the X-Acto miter box I used a scrap of molding as a filler. In photo four I am pretending for the photo to cut one of the vertical braces. I used a witness mark so that the cuts would be about the same. The length of these pieces isn't critical. About an inch is called out in the instructions. They do all need to be the same length because I’m going to add lengthwise braces. Photograph five shows the resulting parts. Photo six. I used a square to draw a line on each side for the position of one of the long braces. Back to the Tamiya cement and an inhaler for photograph seven. I used the Tamiya brush to paint a sloppy coat on the edge of one the long strips and mashed it in place along the line I had marked. The end pieces are important. Following the instructions I used a straight edge to position these end pieces as shown in photo eight. In photograph nine I have done the center brace and am getting ready to cement the end in place. Photo ten shows the completed bracing on one of the sides. And, photograph eleven, the sides are again resting under weights. Sorta like vampires in their coffins waiting for the darkness of night. Now we have something like a traditional flat kit. Two sides, two ends, a top and a bottom. I’m guessing that from here on there won’t be particularly new ground to cover.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 20, 2020 4:54:46 GMT -8
I'm impressed by your array of tools and the quality of your work.
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Post by slowfreight on Nov 20, 2020 6:29:39 GMT -8
Instead of the dimensional stock you used, I had some 3/8" square brass tubing from an old project that I glued on each side, which gave both weight and rigidity. Unfortunately, the sides bowed inward slightly along the vertical axis but it's not really noticeable on the finished car.
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Post by Christian on Nov 20, 2020 10:54:37 GMT -8
Cannon & Company Northern Pacific Boxcar Kit Lurching Ahead
I had some extra oomph this morning so I proceeded to the next step, preparing the Branchline ends. The locating posts on the back are cut off to be later sanded away. Photograph one shows my first problem with these ends. Namely my sprue nipper can’t fit into the tiny space. I used my JLC Saw in photo two to cut into the sprues, but couldn't get all the way through without damage to those little details on the ends. My trusty Hasegawa chisel punched through the weakened sprues. Photograph three. I was feeling pretty smug until I looked at a photograph of the prototype. Darn it – I shouldn’t have done that. Photo four shows the problem at the bottom of the end. The Branchline part isn’t at all like the prototype. Also there is a riveted baton strip that need to be replaced with a weld seam in the middle. The instructions call out a strip at the top of the end to make the overhanging roof meet the side walls correctly. I think I can figure out how to do all of that. I can’t change the corrugations, but I can live with them so long as the coupler area looks “right” to me. Photo five. Before moving on any of that stuff I figured I should make sure that the ends and sides fit nice and vertical without a gap at the ends. 3 out of 4 ain’t bad. Vigorous sanding took care of the forth corner. At this point I was kinda punting but I thought it might be a good thing to figure out how the Accurail underframe (photograph six) interacted with the ends. It is a nice piece of molding with minor sprue snipping needed. First I needed to establish some mechanics. Photograph seven shows the trucks I chose for the project because they best matched the photographs. They are Moloco ASF Ride Control trucks. I anticipated all sorts of problems based on recent comments about Moloco trucks and screws on other threads. Nope No problems. Photo eight shows the included screw and washer I used to temporarily mount the trucks. When it’s for real I’ll need screws that replace Accurail’s press in posts. But these hold for now. And photograph nine. The Kadee coupler gauge indicated that I’ve got some carving to do in order to use the Moloco draft gear. But that the truck/underframe heights are right on. That seemed like a very good time to turn off the lights and put all this in the back of my head for another day. Coming next – well, I don’t know.
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Post by cannon on Nov 20, 2020 14:21:00 GMT -8
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