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Post by fishbelly on Sept 26, 2021 6:09:45 GMT -8
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Post by wmrdgfan on Sept 26, 2021 7:26:45 GMT -8
Nice clean work !!!
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Post by TBird1958 on Sept 26, 2021 8:09:35 GMT -8
Looks fantastic, really sharp work, Brian.
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sd40x
New Member
Posts: 39
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Post by sd40x on Sept 26, 2021 8:30:13 GMT -8
The EMD 35 line is my favorite and no HO diesel represents it better than the Kato GP35. Those fiber optic class lights came out so nice. I still need to watch your video on the cab. I’ve taken allot of notes and part numbers from your videos on this GP35. It turned out fantastic!
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Post by unittrain on Sept 26, 2021 10:19:39 GMT -8
That's an outstanding Pennsy 35 great job! 😎
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Post by Gino Damen on Sept 26, 2021 11:17:43 GMT -8
Looks great! Just curious, how did you get that rusty look on the couplers without showing a lot of paint...?
Gino
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Post by fishbelly on Sept 26, 2021 12:01:36 GMT -8
Looks great! Just curious, how did you get that rusty look on the couplers without showing a lot of paint...? Gino Gino, I do all my couplers the same way (freight cars and locomotives) and the color can vary depending on the pigment application. So here is my process for couplers. 1. Remove the spring and cut off the trip pin. 2. Grind both the top of the trip pin and the bottom flush to the coupler surfaces. 3. Grit blast the coupler to remove all the applied color. Whatever it is that Kadee darkens the couplers with. 4. After grit blasting work the knuckle to remove any residue and make sure it moves freely. 5. Paint the coupler Tamiya flat brown. Same color I use for wheel faces and axles. Let that cure for at least a couple hours or more. 6. Apply a coat of either AK Interactive or Mig Ammo pigment fixer. 7. Coat them with my color of choice pigment. I have a pigment mixture I have been using made from AIM pigments. Dark Earth, Grimy black and a dark rust color. 8. Brush off the excess pigment. 9. Dust them with a lighter rust color. My favorite is Ammo Tracks Rust. 10. Mist from about a foot away with pigment fixer real quickly. Making sure not to soak them. Just a mist. This gives them a very old ground in dirt and rust look. 11. Install the spring and done. Any coupler contact with other couplers will shine expose fresh metal that will look natural. |
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Post by drsvelte on Sept 26, 2021 12:22:20 GMT -8
Very nice, indeed!
I like your display stand, too - is it one you fabricated or purchased?
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Post by fishbelly on Sept 26, 2021 12:40:34 GMT -8
Very nice, indeed! I like your display stand, too - is it one you fabricated or purchased? The display stand is made from 1/4" or maybe 1/2" basswood cut to whatever length I want it to be. This display stand was cut to size to fit a rotating table. I added cork roadbed, track and ballast. I have about 6 of them and two that will hold two six axle or three four axle locomotives. When the ballast is still moist, I use a straight edge to clean up the line and then paint the wood with craft hobby paint. |
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Post by el3672 on Sept 26, 2021 12:59:35 GMT -8
Really nice build Brian....also I wanted to mention that you did a
great job on your YouTube channel segments for this project. I got thru
most of them and all very informative.
BTW what did you use for the class lights? Those MVs?
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Post by fishbelly on Sept 26, 2021 13:07:10 GMT -8
EL3672, The class lights are mushroomed fiber optics. I give a demonstration on how to make them in one of my videos. I am not 100% sure, but I think it is in the reconstruction video.
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Post by lars on Sept 26, 2021 15:59:28 GMT -8
Great work! I’ve been following the build on YouTube and I appreciate all the time you take to share your techniques. Also impressed with how fast that went. You had a new video every couple of days!
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Post by fishbelly on Sept 26, 2021 16:33:29 GMT -8
Thank you all for the very nice compliments. I appreciate it. lars, I probably would have finished sooner if I did not go through two restarts. Thank you for taking the time to watch the videos.
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Post by slowfreight on Sept 26, 2021 16:39:12 GMT -8
If you'd like a little finer profile on the handrails, I have been using Athearn GP35 rails on my Kato shells. You'll have to move the stanchion holes along the blower duct and salvage the drop step and attached stanchions from the Kato set for quickest installation.
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Post by fishbelly on Sept 26, 2021 17:28:44 GMT -8
Thank you slowfreight for the suggestion. I have no issues with the Kato handrail sets. I like them. They fit and ready to go.
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Post by markfj on Sept 26, 2021 17:49:02 GMT -8
Just finished watching the last video installment for the build. I took notes too! Interesting comment about that door (contactor access panel?) on the Kato dynamic brake. I checked the only accurate drawing I have for a PRR GP35 (from an article Jim Six did for Model Railroading way back in April of 1993) and sure enough, no access panel on the engineer's side. Good catch!  Great work as always Brain and thanks for the videos! By the way, I know you're not interested in getting into selling detail parts. But if you ever add those air filters you designed for this build to your Shapeways account, please let us know. Same with the photo etched parts. Maybe you could put the designs up somewhere so we can get are own sets made by the company you use? |
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Post by Gino Damen on Sept 27, 2021 0:10:36 GMT -8
Looks great! Just curious, how did you get that rusty look on the couplers without showing a lot of paint...? Gino Gino, I do all my couplers the same way (freight cars and locomotives) and the color can vary depending on the pigment application. So here is my process for couplers. 1. Remove the spring and cut off the trip pin. 2. Grind both the top of the trip pin and the bottom flush to the coupler surfaces. 3. Grit blast the coupler to remove all the applied color. Whatever it is that Kadee darkens the couplers with. 4. After grit blasting work the knuckle to remove any residue and make sure it moves freely. 5. Paint the coupler Tamiya flat brown. Same color I use for wheel faces and axles. Let that cure for at least a couple hours or more. 6. Apply a coat of either AK Interactive or Mig Ammo pigment fixer. 7. Coat them with my color of choice pigment. I have a pigment mixture I have been using made from AIM pigments. Dark Earth, Grimy black and a dark rust color. 8. Brush off the excess pigment. 9. Dust them with a lighter rust color. My favorite is Ammo Tracks Rust. 10. Mist from about a foot away with pigment fixer real quickly. Making sure not to soak them. Just a mist. This gives them a very old ground in dirt and rust look. 11. Install the spring and done. Any coupler contact with other couplers will shine expose fresh metal that will look natural.
Thanks, I have a lot of the supplies in stock, but a grit blaster isn't one of them. But I think that I can get close to the look I like with your information.
Gino
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Post by nebrzephyr on Sept 27, 2021 7:43:59 GMT -8
A link to the build video?
Bob
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Post by fishbelly on Sept 27, 2021 9:21:37 GMT -8
A link to the build video? Bob Bob, This is the first one. Some of them get pretty long and this does not start out as a PRR model. |
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Post by nebrzephyr on Sept 28, 2021 8:37:13 GMT -8
A link to the build video? Bob Bob, This is the first one. Some of them get pretty long and this does not start out as a PRR model. Thanks. Very informative video. Bob |
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