|
|
Post by valenciajim on Jun 26, 2022 9:59:54 GMT -8
I recently purchased a couple of resin models, and I was reading thorough the instructions and browsing online. It seems as though many recommend using an acrylic primer while others say an enamel primer may work well too. One website linked to a specific type of Krylon paint. I built a couple of resin automobile models twenty years ago, and I recall not having good success with the paint. Now twenty years later, the paint selections are even more limited. So, I was wondering whether anyone has experience working with resin models, and if so, what primer they used? Also, what grit sandpaper have you used on resin models? I am planning on building the Concept Models Allis Chalmers well car. See ACMX 400 Special Well Car. That was one of my favorite Lionel cars as a kid and I thought it would be cool to add one to my rolling stock roster. Many thanks in advance for your thoughts! |
|
|
|
Post by drsvelte on Jun 26, 2022 11:39:26 GMT -8
I'm not sure this directly speaks to your question, but Tamiya's Fine Surface Primer White (TAM87044) is the best primer I have used. It goes on evenly and yields a thin and smooth finish. It covers well but does not fill-in or obscure details.
I have never used it on resin, however, just plastics and metals.
|
|
|
|
Post by Christian on Jun 26, 2022 12:32:51 GMT -8
Badger Stynylrez
|
|
|
|
Post by valenciajim on Jun 26, 2022 16:45:56 GMT -8
Thanks everyone. I went to my not so local hobby shop (60 miles round trip) and they recommended using a Testors gray enamel primer as the base coat and then Tamiya has a color that almost perfectly matched the prototype photo I had. So once I have the assemblies completed, I will spray the primer, wait a day and then spray the final coat. It may take a while because the thermometer said 107 degrees today, which is just too hot for painting.
Christian, I will look into the Badger product you mentioned.
I am sanding with 600 grit sandpaper and that seems to be working out fine.
|
|
|
|
Post by Christian on Jun 27, 2022 2:22:41 GMT -8
Badger Stynylrez is strange stuff. It is thick and airbrushed at a higher pressure than modelers commonly use. (5mm nozzle at 30lbs.) It goes on smoothly and levels well. It is sandable. Badger says thin if needed for lower pressure with H 2O. It is the goto primer for military modelers who use plastic, etch, and resin parts. But, it seems like any other acrylic paint in that it is easily scratched off engineering plastics and metal. Though sandable, it is tender. Windex washes it right off. But, come back a week later when the vinyl/urethane resin has cured and it is like an iron plating. As for your weird flat car - There isn't anything wrong with the hobby shop recommendation. Especially with an Allis Chalmers orange match available. There is a dirty little secret in the hobby. ALL primers work just fine. Sandable primers are better because ugly stuff appears as soon as there is an even coat of color on the model. Rattle cans are convenient. Despite my Stylylrez collection, I have a can of Krylon in reach for those times that I really don't want to clean an airbrush. When it is empty I'll buy the Tamiya which is great stuff. Heck, anything Tamiya makes is good stuff. |
|
|
|
Post by Christian on Jun 27, 2022 2:45:05 GMT -8
I meant to comment yesterday but didn't get back to the topic. That is one weird a** flatcar. Some questions since CM doesn't give any information on the kit. It appears after a bit of Google Foo that a prototype ran into the eighties as a Siemens-Allis car. Is the condenser separate? The car looks good, but the condenser doesn't. Decals? It appears that the trucks are standard 100t. But I notice that there are identical appearing cars with Buckeye trucks. How are the trucks mounted and what provision is there for coupler mounting? |
|
|
|
Post by valenciajim on Jun 27, 2022 8:00:55 GMT -8
I meant to comment yesterday but didn't get back to the topic. That is one weird a** flatcar. Some questions since CM doesn't give any information on the kit. It appears after a bit of Google Foo that a prototype ran into the eighties as a Siemens-Allis car. Is the condenser separate? The car looks good, but the condenser doesn't. Decals? It appears that the trucks are standard 100t. But I notice that there are identical appearing cars with Buckeye trucks. How are the trucks mounted and what provision is there for coupler mounting? I might start a thread on this model, but I am exceptionally busy with non-hobby related stuff right now. This is the first model I have attempted since late December. It is interesting to note that the car ran into the eighties. I did not realize that. The car is a really strange car. As I mentioned above, it caught my attention because Lionel made a fairly accurate model of the car in the late 1950s and I always thought it was cool. I just purchased the new Kalmbach book, More Realistic Freight Car Loads and this car is featured on Page 60 with a black and white picture on Page 63. That picture shows a lot of scrapes on the sides of the car. I also suspect that the orange paint faded somewhat over time. Apparently, the car was used to carry odd sized and oddly shaped cargo including one place ring bearings for mill equipment, gears, and oversized condensers for nuclear power plants. The car had no floor and the cargo was supported on the outside frame. This allowed the cargo to be slightly larger than what would be carried on a conventional flat car. Apparently a number of Allis Chalmers productes required minimum tolerances that exceeded the dimensional capacity of conventional flat cars. The kit comes with decals. The condenser load that comes with the kit looks pathetic and is really hard to build because the parts do not fit together very well. I am scratch building something that sort of looks like a condenser out of styrene That will be removable. The kit comes with materials to mount the trucks and coupler boxes. Both are glued onto the bottom of the car. This certainly is a different model-both protoypically and because it is a resin kit. The frames and the ends of the car to which the frames are glued are not a great fit. Perhaps that is why the instructions recommend the use of a Dremel tool, presumably to fabricate the contours into a more seamless connection. |
|
|
|
Post by valenciajim on Jun 27, 2022 8:26:41 GMT -8
|
|
|
|
Post by grahamline on Jun 27, 2022 13:08:21 GMT -8
Primers work more reliably and more predictably when the pieces to be painted get at least a reasonable cleaning, too.
|
|
|
|
Post by valenciajim on Jun 27, 2022 16:49:36 GMT -8
Primers work more reliably and more predictably when the pieces to be painted get at least a reasonable cleaning, too. I always meticulously wash any plastic or now a resin model meticulously with dish soap and water. My dentist gives me complementary toothbrushes. They work really well for cleaning the models before painting. In fact, they are probably more effective than if they were used for their intended purpose of brushing my teeth. |
|
gnfan
Full Member
Posts: 111
|
Post by gnfan on Jun 27, 2022 17:28:06 GMT -8
I got some resin printed figures a while back..
I did a rinse in 99% Isopropyl Alcohol.
Let them dry and then sprayed them with the rattle can Tamiya primer.
I used gray because that's what I had.
I wore some nitrile gloves when doing the cleaning and priming.
DavidB
|
|
|
|
Post by Christian on Jun 28, 2022 8:24:42 GMT -8
This certainly is a different model-both prototypically and because it is a resin kit. The frames and the ends of the car to which the frames are glued are not a great fit. Perhaps that is why the instructions recommend the use of a Dremel tool, presumably to fabricate the contours into a more seamless connection. It seems like I should wait a bit until you've actually done some construction. It's not like I really need any more models to build, but that is one strange car. The way it's way up in the air over the trucks looks like a modeler's mistake. The photos of the car referenced in your next post look like there is enough information to detail this beast. I'm amazed that in 2003 the car was in its mid-fifties paint and lettering. |
|
|
|
Post by valenciajim on Jun 28, 2022 13:01:40 GMT -8
The car was 46 years old in 2003. I am starting to work on the model in my spare time. I am learning why resin models are not more popular. It might be easier to scratch build this model in styrene. I will probably post a thread in the NO forum when I get a chance. I am glad that this car caught your interest. I am still amazed at the Taco Bell and house models that you built last year. I am looking at lots of Taco Bell Restaurants and former Taco Bell restaurants.
|
|
|
|
Post by kentuckysouthernrwy on Jun 29, 2022 6:32:06 GMT -8
That’s quite a unique car. Looks like the seed of thought that derived into Der Schnaebel (sp) car!
Please do keep us in the loop as you proceed.
|
|
|
|
Post by onequiknova on Jun 29, 2022 18:25:18 GMT -8
I'll second Christians recommendation of Stynylrez. I started using it on my resin vehicles, and haven't had a problem with peeling the paint off when removing masking like I used to. (Knock on wood)
|
|
|
|
Post by dti406 on Jun 30, 2022 18:32:23 GMT -8
Those Concept Models have been known to be a bear to build and are not really well made along with poor fit and finish, most new resin kits go together very well especially Rail Yard Models.
I use Scalecoat and Scalecoat II Paint and never use a primer with Scalecoat.
Rick Jesionowski
|
|
|
|
Post by valenciajim on Jul 1, 2022 12:32:16 GMT -8
Those Concept Models have been known to be a bear to build and are not really well made along with poor fit and finish, most new resin kits go together very well especially Rail Yard Models. I use Scalecoat and Scalecoat II Paint and never use a primer with Scalecoat. Rick Jesionowski I will post a thread on the construction of this kit. It definitely will not win any contests. |
|
|
|
Post by loco8107 on Jul 3, 2022 7:28:18 GMT -8
I use Scalecoat and Scalecoat II Paint and never use a primer with Scalecoat. Rick Jesionowski Regardless of color choice? I always used Scalecoat II (CR blue and the gloss black) but thought primer was always necessary regardless of brand. I guess SC covers better than we think? |
|
|
|
Post by lvrr325 on Jul 10, 2022 4:04:41 GMT -8
Using the same primer every time will maintain a consistent color without need for as many coats.
I am of the opinion that the Rustoleum 2x paints are just Testors paints in a bigger can for a cheaper price, for a primer I might try one of those before buying the little can.
|
|
|
|
Post by valenciajim on Jul 10, 2022 4:32:36 GMT -8
Using the same primer every time will maintain a consistent color without need for as many coats. I am of the opinion that the Rustoleum 2x paints are just Testors paints in a bigger can for a cheaper price, for a primer I might try one of those before buying the little can. You may be right about that. A Google search revealed the following about Rustoleum 2X: "An all-purpose oil-based spray enamel paint for use on wood, metal, wicker, and crafts. Durable finish provides excellent resistance to chipping, cracking, and peeling and has outstanding fade resistance and sheen retention. Suitable for use on interior and exterior surfaces." Meanwhile this is what is said about Testor's enamel paints: "Testors Enamel Paints are oil-based enamel paints and have been used to paint plastic models for generations, but they have many uses. They can be applied to almost any surface. They are fast drying, easy to apply and have excellent flow and coverage." |
|
