What is best way to model the classic CPR wood van 1881-1991

[sd40dash2]

All large styrene sections are ready, everything is going as intended. Great fun.

[sd40dash2]

Here are the materials and pieces for the next steps. Nice bottom plates for the toolboxes were cut from scrap .010 while the rest here is for the end sill bars.

[sd40dash2]

End sill bars now installed, keeping a sample draft gear close at hand to test overall alignment. The toolboxes and K brake cylinders turned out to be the most useful parts from those original MDC cars, so their use constitutes me adapting those kits to the build.

[sd40dash2]

Prepare 4 taller top risers.

[sd40dash2]

Prepare remaining risers and steps.

[kentuckysouthernrwy]

???Loooking Good!

[sd40dash2]

Install all steps and risers after etch supports are aligned, glued and dried. If you don't have any leftover etch like this you could always make supports out of wire or other similar material as well. The way I'm doing this is similar to how the prototype built these same steps FYI.

[fr8kar]

This is such a cool solution to building steps. I've built steps for several cabooses now and the inevitable consequence of using appropriately thin styrene to simulate the light sheet metal used to fabricate the prototype steps is that they will be flimsy. Just no getting around it. I guess building them out of brass is a possibility but I don't really have a setup to mess with all the fiddly bits unless I had a custom etch made for them. This method actually allows easy-to-use styrene but gives the steps actual strength. And it's built using scraps! Brilliant Manny.

[sd40dash2]

Van 3445 steps and end platforms complete. Shop trucks essential to keep close watch on clearances during the build.

[sd40dash2]

Materials used for end walkway surface boards.

[sd40dash2]

End walkway boards installed, also another view of the completed steps.

[edgecrusher]

Looking great. I really like how your using individual "boards" rather than just scribing sheet.

[sd40dash2]

^ The vast array of available & accurate styrene strip dimensions is a true Godsend that enables projects like this!

[sd40dash2]

Brake time!

[sd40dash2]

Basic brake components test-installed, check now for missing pieces.

[Christian]

Sept 23, 2023 13:22:35 GMT -8 sd40dash2 said:

Basic brake components test-installed, check now for missing pieces.

Hi there. It's me again. [SIGH]

All these dangly bits are looking good. My notes below don't mean redoing anything and those are the best sort of notes, I hope!

The rods that come from the fulcrum under the brake stand on each end of the caboose connect to the levers with a short length of chain which is slightly slack. This time it's one of those things you do if you have very fine chain at hand. I'm fifty-fifty on whether I do it or not on cars that don't have a good view of the underside. I didn't do it on the photo I posted on your short caboose thread because back then I didn't have fine chain.

When you do your airline piping, the line from the valve to the retainer next to the brake wheel in the case of cabooses/vans is doubled - each end of the car.

Because of truck clearance these retainer pipes and the hand brake rods usually have to be chopped away from the trucks which looks odd when the car is on its back. The underside at the top in this photo looks like there will be a wheelset problem.

By the way I'm really loving all these caboose builds. I look forward to Atlas Rescue because I know there is going to be a new chapter. 

[sd40dash2]

^ Thanks Christian for the response and feedback. Glad you continue to enjoy and support my caboose builds!

I believe you are correct wrt various rods, valves, retainer and release rods and other smaller brake bits. I know some of the RPM guys really go the distance when it comes to u/f detailing but that is not my goal. Truck swing is a key component when planning where to place rods and I have many brake diagrams, books and other research material I review first. I have many sizes or wire as well as nice fine chain on hand here at all times. Ultimately the truck swing is paramount because I am being mindful of operations when building these, even if they just go in a display case. Also, our 0-5-0 clumsy hands and fingers take up a certain amount of real estate and I also mindful of that. This unfortunately means omitting a lot of smaller bits that are at the edge of the frame that fingers will certainly bump off or that will interfere with truck swing.

[sd40dash2]

Not all under frame components are black on the older vans.

[sd40dash2]

Now that paint is dry on both wheels and trucks, time to deburr and check gauge, then assemble.

[sd40dash2]

Trucks and wheels painted, weathered and assembled.

[sd40dash2]

OK back to the under frames with final trucks, check that everything still aligns.

[Christian]

Underframe toolboxes are the model builder's friend.

[sd40dash2]

Check truck swing and wheel clearances against steps, draft gear, floor, center bar and cross members. Easier to handle and adjust now before final detailing and before too much other assembly takes place.

[sd40dash2]

Sept 28, 2023 4:37:31 GMT -8 Christian said:

Underframe toolboxes are the model builder's friend.

The value of a good toolbox cannot be overstated.

[sd40dash2]

All brake detailing has been glued and dried, now paint the under frame bottoms black and allow to dry.

[sd40dash2]

Then install shop trucks, turn the frames over and give the tops, steps and ends a nice coat of my version of tuscan/oxide/freight car brown.

[cpr4200]

Is that rattle can brown or an airbrush mix?

[sd40dash2]

[sd40dash2]

The next few photos will show completed underframes of both vans, starting with this view underneath 436571. I will later hand paint the truck bolsters black. This was CP's upgraded "steel" frame for wood vans.

[sd40dash2]

Waiting on weight.