|
|
Post by dwayne1432 on Mar 17, 2017 3:41:37 GMT -8
My name is Dwayne Petersen from Cape Town South Africa, and I would like to know how you reproduce the models, example the 66 Chevelle?
I have a collection of over 5500 cars and trucks in 1:64 scale, there are some models I can't get my hands on and some I want to try and customise. I want to keep my originals intact
I have a set of motorcycles I bought about 25 years ago, a lot of friends and modelers want to reproduce them.
We have a few places in Cape Town that can try and print the 3d models but the problem is scanning them, the people who have these type scanners want to charge up to R3500 (Rand) per scan, even if it is only a bumper. In dollars this is about $250, just for the scan and not the reprint.
Is there any way you can advise or help?
Dwayne
|
|
|
|
Post by edgecrusher on Mar 20, 2017 8:16:21 GMT -8
Impressive results, John, glad you stuck with it. Anyway you can cast in clear material to get the window glass as well, like the Willams Bros. models? I'm sure I could figure out a way to add flush glass to the master, but I prefer to make my windows from clear tape.  Can you elaborate on the clear tape method? I see quite a few vehicles on shapeways I'm interested in, but I wasn't sure about how to make the "glass". |
|
|
|
Post by onequiknova on Mar 20, 2017 8:44:22 GMT -8
I'm sure I could figure out a way to add flush glass to the master, but I prefer to make my windows from clear tape. Can you elaborate on the clear tape method? I see quite a few vehicles on shapeways I'm interested in, but I wasn't sure about how to make the "glass". I can't take credit for this technique. Mike Budde, who is an excellent vehicle modeler showed me this trick. This is the last step. You want the model painted and any chrome window trim painted. What you want to do is cut a piece of crystal clear scotch tape larger than the window. Grab the piece at what will be the top with a pair of tweezers, and with a sharp pair of scissors, cut the bottom of the pieces of tape to match the bottom of the window you want to glaze. Next, line up the bottom of the tape to the opening, and burnish all the way around the window trim. You will have excess around all sides except the bottom. Now just trim along the outside of the chrome window trim with a SHARP blade. I use a new single edged razor blade. If you get some wrinkles, pull it off and start over with a new piece. |
|
|
|
Post by onequiknova on Mar 20, 2017 8:47:49 GMT -8
My name is Dwayne Petersen from Cape Town South Africa, and I would like to know how you reproduce the models, example the 66 Chevelle? I have a collection of over 5500 cars and trucks in 1:64 scale, there are some models I can't get my hands on and some I want to try and customise. I want to keep my originals intact I have a set of motorcycles I bought about 25 years ago, a lot of friends and modelers want to reproduce them. We have a few places in Cape Town that can try and print the 3d models but the problem is scanning them, the people who have these type scanners want to charge up to R3500 (Rand) per scan, even if it is only a bumper. In dollars this is about $250, just for the scan and not the reprint. Is there any way you can advise or help? Dwayne Hi Dwayne. I'm not sure how you'd go about this while keeping the vehicles intact. They need to be completely disassembled, and the solvents mixed into the silicone to shrink the mold would likely ruin the paint on the model. The paint also tends obscures the details in the castings. That's why my diecast master have the paint stripped. |
|
|
|
Post by edgecrusher on Mar 20, 2017 9:17:03 GMT -8
Can you elaborate on the clear tape method? I see quite a few vehicles on shapeways I'm interested in, but I wasn't sure about how to make the "glass". I can't take credit for this technique. Mike Budde, who is an excellent vehicle modeler showed me this trick. This is the last step. You want the model painted and any chrome window trim painted. What you want to do is cut a piece of crystal clear scotch tape larger than the window. Grab the piece at what will be the top with a pair of tweezers, and with a sharp pair of scissors, cut the bottom of the pieces of tape to match the bottom of the window you want to glaze. Next, line up the bottom of the tape to the opening, and burnish all the way around the window trim. You will have excess around all sides except the bottom. Now just trim along the outside of the chrome window trim with a SHARP blade. I use a new single edged razor blade. If you get some wrinkles, pull it off and start over with a new piece. So are you laminating two pieces with the sticky sides together? If you just put it sticky side, won't it just collect a bunch of dust? |
|
|
|
Post by onequiknova on Mar 20, 2017 9:26:08 GMT -8
I can't take credit for this technique. Mike Budde, who is an excellent vehicle modeler showed me this trick. This is the last step. You want the model painted and any chrome window trim painted. What you want to do is cut a piece of crystal clear scotch tape larger than the window. Grab the piece at what will be the top with a pair of tweezers, and with a sharp pair of scissors, cut the bottom of the pieces of tape to match the bottom of the window you want to glaze. Next, line up the bottom of the tape to the opening, and burnish all the way around the window trim. You will have excess around all sides except the bottom. Now just trim along the outside of the chrome window trim with a SHARP blade. I use a new single edged razor blade. If you get some wrinkles, pull it off and start over with a new piece. So are you laminating two pieces with the sticky sides together? If you just put it sticky side, won't it just collect a bunch of dust? It's just a single piece. On that truck, after the "glass" was installed, I brushed Future floor polish on the back to get rid of the adhesive, but it caused some crazing. It hard to see in the picture, but it looks like a cracked windshield in person. All subsequent cars I've done, I just left the tape adhesive alone, and haven't had any issues that I can see. You'd need a decent cross wind to blow dust inside an HO scale car. Or, you can put glass in the side windows too, and not have to worry about it. A bit of experimenting with different clears might find one that doesn't cause crazing. I just didn't feel the need. |
|
|
|
Post by onequiknova on Mar 20, 2017 9:34:17 GMT -8
|
|
|
|
Post by rapidotrains on Mar 21, 2017 18:32:46 GMT -8
Great work, John! We definitely need more 1970s vehicles.
-Jason
|
|
|
|
Post by onequiknova on Mar 21, 2017 19:13:15 GMT -8
Great work, John! We definitely need more 1970s vehicles. -Jason Thanks Jason. Hey, maybe you can do something about that.  |
|
