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Post by kentuckysouthernrwy on Nov 17, 2023 6:23:28 GMT -8
I guess I missed it, what is your source for the cupolas?
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Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 17, 2023 6:37:28 GMT -8
^ Cupolas are supplied by Bowser. They were made for the N-8 caboose but are dimensionally very close to CP prototype. Old kits are readily available on ebay and I would presume many US train shows. These kits have a lot of nicely-made parts that can be used for future caboose projects as well. You can also chop up an old Tyco caboose if you have one of those in your junk pile, or grab one from a show for cheap.
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Post by kentuckysouthernrwy on Nov 17, 2023 10:02:48 GMT -8
Thanks, appreciate the info. I’ll file that away in case I ever decide to undertake such a magnificent task as yours.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 18, 2023 5:45:57 GMT -8
Once the rivet lines are marked, it becomes easy to see where the running board supports belong. .010 sheet is thin enough that you can see the rivet lines showing through as well. Mark all support locations now.
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Post by cpr4200 on Nov 18, 2023 10:51:34 GMT -8
So did you poach the cupolas from entire kits or did you order just the parts from Bowser?
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Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 18, 2023 12:48:06 GMT -8
^ Thankfully I managed to get some old parts from Bowser, saving me quite a bit of money.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 19, 2023 5:10:07 GMT -8
All roof measurements and marking are complete and almost ready for primer & paint. The undersides with rivet line markings are on the left, tops with running board support markings on the right. The extra test piece might be useful if a section is later damaged.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 20, 2023 5:48:49 GMT -8
Surprise! Everything has been primed, dried, repaired, sprayed yellow, dried again and then brought back inside for decalling. Decals had to be painfully cut out the hard way while coats were drying. All of this involved several days of effort before it got too cold to spray outside. No time to take demo photos due to time crunch, so here we are!
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Post by Christian on Nov 20, 2023 6:30:31 GMT -8
Decals had to be painfully cut out the hard way while coats were drying. Make sure you don't breathe too heavily!
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Post by stevef45 on Nov 20, 2023 6:48:47 GMT -8
Surprise! Everything has been primed, dried, repaired, sprayed yellow, dried again and then brought back inside for decalling. Decals had to be painfully cut out the hard way while coats were drying. All of this involved several days of effort before it got too cold to spray outside. No time to take demo photos due to time crunch, so here we are! My cats would find a way to plow down right on top of my decals if this were my work area.
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Post by Christian on Nov 20, 2023 7:34:00 GMT -8
My cats would find a way to plow down right on top of my decals if this were my work area. The last time I laid out a spread of decals like that I knocked over my bottle of Micro Sol. Now I have holders for liquids. The ones in the photo are by 3d prints by/for Michigan Toy Soldier but I have seen other holders with the same concept. In front are the inserts for different-sized bottles. The one on the ledge holds my two bottles of Tamiya cement And I have yet to change those out.
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Post by stevef45 on Nov 20, 2023 9:06:25 GMT -8
I'll eventually get something like this once i have a dedicated work bench. I have my "portable work bench" that i bring between work and home.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 21, 2023 6:07:27 GMT -8
Calling all cats! Lots of very small decal pieces here had to be cut out the hard way. This was also very tedious but still enjoyable, old-school modelling enjoyment. Remember this type of build is mostly about the journey. This will not work if you are in the mindset of 'Need to hurry up and get this all put together!' No deadline on this project but still maintain regular progress. Take your time and enjoy the ride!
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Post by bridge2nowhere on Nov 21, 2023 6:35:03 GMT -8
Is there a reason you have two sets of numbers for 437422?
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Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 21, 2023 6:53:35 GMT -8
Is there a reason you have two sets of numbers for 437422? Thanks for the great question, I see you are paying attention. Only two of the streamlined vans ever received action yellow paint, with three numbers. I counted a total of six variations of these over time. Since I am doing five models, I decided on all non-running board configurations, meaning there will be three versions of 437442, painted in 1973, '78 and '84. The latter two will feature a propane tank under the frame.
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Post by bridge2nowhere on Nov 21, 2023 7:14:32 GMT -8
Makes sense. Thanks.
Another question, do you use the pencil lines for final layout and cutting/nibbling?
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Post by gevohogger on Nov 21, 2023 7:47:19 GMT -8
I don't think I've ever seen anyone cut out all the decals at once like that. But maybe it's me that is weird.... I just cut them out one at a time as needed.
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Post by Christian on Nov 21, 2023 8:13:53 GMT -8
I don't think I've ever seen anyone cut out all the decals at once like that. But maybe it's me that is weird.... I just cut them out one at a time as needed. I used to do it that way until I spilled the bottle of setting fluid. I sorta still do it in that I cut out one car side at a time. I lay them out as they will go on the car side and then apply left to right. It's just easier for me to cut, then apply the decal, then apply setting solutions for an entire side at a time. Stopping to cut each decal isn't in the rhythm I like, but certainly works for lot of folks. I'm paraphrasing - Andy Sperando commented that despite the numerous paint shop articles he wrote that he didn't much like decaling. To that end he would do anything to speed up the process. After the decal separated from the backing he would dip the decal into a bottle of Solveset and then plop it onto the car. One Chance! I did try it and you could guess how that turned out.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 21, 2023 17:35:56 GMT -8
Interesting discussion regarding the decals and IMO the comments mostly apply for doing one model at a time. When you are doing several, work space is in short supply and so I've found the assembly line method to be the most efficient use of all resources. Being able to put away ALL of the tools, parts and supplies needed for a particular task frees up valuable space for all those things on the next task. Plus less stops and starts this way.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 21, 2023 17:37:24 GMT -8
Another question, do you use the pencil lines for final layout and cutting/nibbling? Indeed, the pencil lines provide guidance for the things you mention along with rivet pouncing or rivet line decal placement as well.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 22, 2023 6:11:08 GMT -8
Decalling the cupolas was even more tedious as those numbers are tiny. This took quite a bit of time.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 23, 2023 5:59:27 GMT -8
The paint used is already glossy and ready for decals.
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Post by cpr4200 on Nov 23, 2023 12:33:28 GMT -8
Guessing that's your spray can Caterpillar yellow? I'll be going there at some point. Which red and brown did you use for the others?
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Post by kentuckysouthernrwy on Nov 23, 2023 21:07:37 GMT -8
With close to 65yrs of decaling* experience, I still stumble through it with little enthusiasm and frequent frustration. *btw, how do you pronounce the word decal? Always Dee’-cal here. Recently heard a Canadian U-toober declare that it was “deck’-ul”. I supposed any decalcomaniac would know either works.
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Post by Christian on Nov 24, 2023 1:40:51 GMT -8
*btw, how do you pronounce the word decal? Always Dee’-cal here. Recently heard a Canadian U-toober declare that it was “deck’-ul”. I supposed any decalcomaniac would know either works. DEEcal is USA and Great Britain. deckUL is some parts of Canada. Some parts of USA use diCAL. That's mine and I have a feeling it is related to the middle Mississippi river accent. (Memphis to Keokuk)
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Post by Colin 't Hart on Nov 24, 2023 2:14:10 GMT -8
*btw, how do you pronounce the word decal? Always Dee’-cal here. Recently heard a Canadian U-toober declare that it was “deck’-ul”. I supposed any decalcomaniac would know either works. DEEcal is USA and Great Britain. deckUL is some parts of Canada. Some parts of USA use diCAL. That's mine and I have a feeling it is related to the middle Mississippi river accent. (Memphis to Keokuk) Folks in the UK mostly use the word(s) transfer or waterslide transfer, not decal. I'm originally from Australia and have always used the pronunciation deckUL.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 24, 2023 5:32:17 GMT -8
Guessing that's your spray can Caterpillar yellow? I'll be going there at some point. Which red and brown did you use for the others? Hi. Yes, same yellow as previously. While not a precise match for action yellow, it is the closest I can find in spray paint form in my venues.
I should point out that if you are equipped and comfortable with airbrush, you should stick with what works for you. Spray paint is just what works best for me.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 24, 2023 5:52:29 GMT -8
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Post by kentuckysouthernrwy on Nov 24, 2023 5:59:15 GMT -8
DEEcal is USA and Great Britain. deckUL is some parts of Canada. Some parts of USA use diCAL. That's mine and I have a feeling it is related to the middle Mississippi river accent. (Memphis to Keokuk) Folks in the UK mostly use the word(s) transfer or waterslide transfer, not decal. I'm originally from Australia and have always used the pronunciation deckUL. Thanks, Christian and Colin.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 24, 2023 6:09:13 GMT -8
With close to 65yrs of decaling* experience, I still stumble through it with little enthusiasm and frequent frustration. Sorry to read the decal experience has been a negative one for you. Are you using the glosscote/wetting agent/solvent/dullcote + dry between each method demonstrated here? If your decals are not old and cracked, and you have good vision/lighting there is no reason it shouldn't work for you also!
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