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Post by ScaleTrains.com on Dec 7, 2016 18:47:40 GMT -8
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Post by Donnell Wells on Dec 7, 2016 19:10:10 GMT -8
YOU NAILED IT!!!
Donnell
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Post by SD90 on Dec 7, 2016 20:01:43 GMT -8
SO NICE! They look so realistic!
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Post by The Ferro Kid on Dec 7, 2016 20:04:17 GMT -8
VERY impressive!
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Post by GP40P-2 on Dec 7, 2016 20:52:48 GMT -8
Nice job guys! I can't wait to get a UP and a couple of Santa Fe or undec units.
Jim
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Post by loophog on Dec 7, 2016 20:55:21 GMT -8
Wow these are so nice I might have to bump my pre order from one to all four!
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Post by drolsen on Dec 7, 2016 21:35:47 GMT -8
Lookin' pretty darn good!
Dave
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Post by Deleted on Dec 7, 2016 21:41:44 GMT -8
Shane:
Will the truck side frames have the raised "EMD" and applicable lettering?
Will the that parting line around the top of the short hood be sanded smooth before painting?
All else looks fantastic!
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Post by peoriaman on Dec 8, 2016 4:13:45 GMT -8
Fix the snowplow on 3773.
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Post by riogrande on Dec 8, 2016 5:13:09 GMT -8
Those look very nice. Are any of the UP SD40-2's announced good for the 1970's?
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Post by Gary P on Dec 8, 2016 5:17:24 GMT -8
Shane - Wow, very nicely done. Although it's a very popular model that has been made by other Mfr's, I can see many of us upgrading to your newer offerings. I know I will be saving up a few of my hobby $$$ for a pair of these. The detail on them at this price point is quite impressive. Thanks, and good luck with them. I hope you sell all you can make, and look forward to future offerings.
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Post by fr8kar on Dec 8, 2016 5:35:30 GMT -8
First of all, these look great. It's not even a fair fight to put these up against even the most recent models from Athearn. These models bury what has long been the definitive SD40-2, not to mention the also-rans from Kato, Intermountain, Bachmann et al. They are amazing.
However, there are some issues. The mold separation along the top of the nose isn't pretty. Likewise, the handbrake wheel seems to suffer from a mold mismatch. The paint seems a little heavy, like it's covering up and rounding off some of the details in the casting. The silver paint seems to have a lot of chunky metallic flakes, where the aluminum paint should be smoother and more monochromatic.
The underframe and end details look great. Offer that cut lever separately and you'll sell a ton of them (to me! but I can't speak for other buyers). I love the drop steps, the handrails, the welds along the blower duct, the fuel tank details. The plow looks amazing, so thin like it should be. The numberboards and cab windows are the best I've seen apart from Cannon. The dynamic blister is unreal, so well done (finally!). Other than the silver, the paint colors look good.
Again, these blow away SD40-2s from everyone else. There are some issues in these samples, but this is a hell of a lot better starting point than anything else. My bank account is doomed if you ever do the early Katy units or KCS in white.
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Post by Brakie on Dec 8, 2016 6:09:03 GMT -8
Shane,I know the operator DCC/Sound SD40-2 "will be devoid of Christmas tree ornaments and other whimsy"* I can't wait.
Great job!
*Those are the words Dick Dilworth used while describing his idea behind the GP7 as being a plain and simple locomotive. No harm, no foul.
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Post by calzephyr on Dec 8, 2016 6:47:01 GMT -8
They are detailed way beyond any model SD40-2 up to now!!! Scale Trains is setting new standards for the industry
Larry
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Post by riogrande on Dec 8, 2016 7:12:01 GMT -8
However, there are some issues. The mold separation along the top of the nose isn't pretty. Yes, I noticed that in earlier photo's as well. The nose is very prominent feature so I sure hope they can clean up those nose separation at the top of the nose.
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Post by tony on Dec 8, 2016 7:49:18 GMT -8
Shane, Those very nice. Can you take a closer look at the front stanchions - appears they are not fully inserted and the base is not touching the deck like they should. Is it just that they are not inserted fully, or a problem with the mounting holes?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 8, 2016 8:16:01 GMT -8
To date, this model is the **BEST** rendition of the SD40-2. Walk up first impressions is all eye candy.
Now with that said, upon closer look and scrutiny there are some issues. Before I get into them, let me rate it in two categories. The RTR/Good Enough and the Modeler. On a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being best. This of course is sans motor quality. Only basing on what I see as the fidelity of the model. Motor quality could drop this down. Kato quality motor is the bench mark.
RTR/Good Enough = 10 This will typically always be a 10
Modeler = 8 I give it an 8 because of two things 1. No builders mark on the side frames 2. No undecs offered means the modeler will have to strip it. If they offer it all as an undec kit, then I move it up to a 9.
Viewing this model from a modelers point of view. Mold parting lines can be cleaned up as long as they are not grossly overstated.
I have to make one statement though. I do not care WHO the manufacturer is. They CANNOT build a model better than the modeler. They can assemble and paint parts, but in no way can they produce an out of the box museum quality model. They do not take the time to clean up the parts or to pay particular close attention to the fit and finish of the model. That is an impossible task when the "assembler" is not emotionally invested in the model. When it is just a job, all bets are off.
So this new model is a great starting point for a true museum quality SD40-2 for a skilled modeler. I ask Scale Trains to NOT drop the ball on adding the builder marks on the side frames. Don't go through all this work to fall short on something so important. I know this statement is going to get the RTR and good enough crowd eyes rolling. But just as you think your group is important, I also think that my group is important. And I will tell you straight up. If it was not for the RPM/Prototype modeler, the RTR and good enough crowd would NOT be enjoying the level of detail that is being put out today.
Brian
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Post by edwardsutorik on Dec 8, 2016 8:52:48 GMT -8
As opposed to continually adding a variety of little bits so that a model is more true to the prototype, adding the builder marks on the side frames is a one-time thing.
And.
It would cost them MORE to add it ONLY to the Rivet Counter, as they'd have to produce and track a greater variety of parts.
On t'other hand, removing the nose parting lines is all individual hand work. And, being handwork, you're going to get some "oopses" and thus wastage.
But.
That said, I'd pay an extra $5 to get rid of the line (without screwing it up). Which, considering the pay rate "over there", should easily cover the cost. Just be sure to hire a cranky old lady with OCD and a good work ethic.
Ed
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Post by Brakie on Dec 8, 2016 9:19:41 GMT -8
RTR/Good Enough = 10 This will typically always be a 10 -----------------------------------
Brian,That depends on the modeler that models close enough/good enough some of us has above average standards for choosing models for that type of modeling style and for many of us that means era specific instead of a hodge podge collection of cars and locomotives from all eras.
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Post by grahamline on Dec 8, 2016 9:37:04 GMT -8
Those look very nice. Are any of the UP SD40-2's announced good for the 1970's? The data on the company's page refers only to post-80s production at this point. A few items -- noses, fans, radiators etc. -- would be different for first-years production. It took Athearn decades to get to the small lettering scheme of the original UP SD40-2.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 8, 2016 9:46:22 GMT -8
RTR/Good Enough = 10 This will typically always be a 10 ----------------------------------- Brian,That depends on the modeler that models close enough/good enough some of us has above average standards for choosing models for that type of modeling style and for many of us that means era specific instead of a hodge podge collection of cars and locomotives from all eras. Brakie or Larry, I respect your reply. Although you are not addressing my reply in its context. you are taking it off on another tangent. I am ONLY refering to teh ScaleTrains SD40-2. I think RTR is pretty well self explanatory. An RTR person is not a modeler. They buy the product because it is Ready To Run and they do not have to do anything to it. Buy it, pull it out of the box and run it. There is NOTHING modeling about it. As long as it has the road name of their favorite railroad, it is ready to run for them. You have a valid point about good enough. I have friends that are good enough modelers. They still build models, but to a standard that does not require extra effort in their goal of having a prototype model. The ScaleTrains SD40-2 falls into that category of it is good enough because I DO NOT have to do anything to it. Everything is in the right place. There is no effort needed to improve the model other than maybe weather it. So the model itself is good enough. Now Brakie or Larry, this is referring to the Scale Trains SD40-2. Not a Bowser RS3 or Atlas GP38 or what not. This thread is about the Scale Trains SD40-2. I am not talking about era or hodge podge of cars. I am commenting on the Scale Trains SD40-2. The modeler on the other hand has issues with the model. Albeit minor, there are still issues that need to be addressed. I am not hammering ScaleTrains or poopooing them. I am making a comment based on the views of a modeler. I am a modeler or model maker or model builder. I am not saying I will not buy any because I already have 8 Kato's that are good enough like you did with the new Bowser RS3 in another thread about the new announcements from Trainfest. The Scale Trains SD40-2 is a GREAT starting point for a museum quality SD40-2. If they would just correct the side frames with a builders mark. Something Shane said they would do when they first announced this model and again backed up that they would add it when I asked again at Trainfest. I am asking ScaleTrains to pony up and live up to their word. Brian
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Post by roadkill on Dec 8, 2016 9:47:55 GMT -8
I WANT CHESSIE PICS !!!!!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 8, 2016 9:51:03 GMT -8
As opposed to continually adding a variety of little bits so that a model is more true to the prototype, adding the builder marks on the side frames is a one-time thing. And. It would cost them MORE to add it ONLY to the Rivet Counter, as they'd have to produce and track a greater variety of parts. On t'other hand, removing the nose parting lines is all individual hand work. And, being handwork, you're going to get some "oopses" and thus wastage. But. That said, I'd pay an extra $5 to get rid of the line (without screwing it up). Which, considering the pay rate "over there", should easily cover the cost. Just be sure to hire a cranky old lady with OCD and a good work ethic. Ed Oh Ed, I agree with you. I guess my comment to this is it is much easier to remove a mold parting line that SHOULD not be there than it is to add the builders mark on the side frames. I abhor mold parting lines on shells. They are a royal pain in the rear to blend. Especially on a pointed nose. The Kato GP35 hood is a real treat (not a good one) to work on with this. Brian
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Post by Deleted on Dec 8, 2016 10:10:38 GMT -8
The mold parting line could be individually sanded down and contoured...at the factory...before painting. I am basing this on the Scale Trains Video "Big Dreams"...where they showed the Turbines being airbrushed individually...I am assuming the SD40-2's are painted the same way...with masks for the multi-color schemes and separation lines.
The Builder's Marks on the side frames are a MUST for a rivet counter "road number specific" model, IMO.
The mold parting line around the short hood can be AND MUST BE removed...unless they are going to offer full undecorated models...because, if you want to get it right...you will have to remove the short hood, sand; and re-paint.
The fit of the cab sides on the BN units (on their website) shows some issues with regards to painting...probably due to close tolerances where the parts fit together...
A super undecorated Model of the ALL versions would AWESOME!!!!
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Post by Brakie on Dec 8, 2016 10:12:32 GMT -8
Brian,As I mention I'm buying the operator SD40-2s and will buy the detail parts bag to add detail at my leisure since I still like doing that kind of stuff plus it gives me hours of relaxation.
The main thing I'm getting a classy looking SD40-2 that outshines my Athearn BB and RTR SD40-2s.
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Post by dharris on Dec 8, 2016 10:19:31 GMT -8
These look amazing. Good job.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 8, 2016 10:44:05 GMT -8
I have to ask. Are these pre-production samples or production samples?
Brian
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Post by railmodeltroy14 on Dec 8, 2016 11:26:09 GMT -8
Excellent model...can't wait for a pair of the NS and CSX-3 versions with sound and alternating ditch lights.
This is how all HO Scale locomotives should be made from now on.
If they run as nice as they look, they will sell out in no time.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 8, 2016 11:35:12 GMT -8
Excellent model...can't wait for a pair of the NS and CSX-3 versions with sound and alternating ditch lights. This is how all HO Scale locomotives should be made from now on. If they run as nice as they look, they will sell out in no time. Take a closer look before you make this statement. There are a LOT more assembly issues if you look at the zoomed in photos. Go to their web site and look closely. I just did and it wasn't pretty. I highly suggest to ScaleTrains to look at their photos before posting them. There are some really unsightly problems with the paint and assembly. Hands down, the tooling is fantastic. Falls short on assembly, fit and finish. Brian
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Post by MONSTERRAILROAD on Dec 8, 2016 11:53:51 GMT -8
Bottom step in the last photo was installed upside down. Look closely, you can easily see it. The assembler MUST have used the etch metal step meant for the other side in order for it to have fit in that spot. Otherwise, modern UP has UP gray trucks, are these getting that gray too?
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