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Post by drolsen on Aug 30, 2020 9:26:38 GMT -8
Note too the CP K3H horn has been installed and primed. It’s interesting that they went to the trouble of replacing the horn on a thirdhand unit like this. Did they relocate the horn to the long hood? If so, that would make sense, combined with standardizing on a CP horn. If I could make one suggestion, I would recommend replacing the “shoebox” dynamic brake vent next to the horn. That was always one of the greatest visual shortcomings of Kato EMDs. I actually thought they did away with that on the SD40-2, but I guess not. I think that’s a relatively easy but noticeable upgrade. Of course, that means matching paint, but it’s an area that will end up dirty anyway. I’m enjoying following your progress! Dave |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Aug 30, 2020 10:06:57 GMT -8
^ Only a guess, but I believe the K3H mod was done to help properly equip these units to lead in Canada. I believe these units always had the horn mounted in that spot but my photos of CP 5428 show a K3H horn with action red paint. The model horn was the incorrect style and also designed to go above the headlight, so either way this detail needed attention.
Thank you so much for your excellent suggestion to replace the roof vent. I definitely agree there is something that doesn't look very good about the factory part. Unfortunately the model is now at the stage where it is too late to do so, despite what you see in these photos. Matching paint would be the least of my issues given the amount of damage I would cause trying to change the part at this point. Again, I really appreciate you taking the time to participate in this thread and provide input. Keep the comments coming!
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mpi
Junior Member
Posts: 67 
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Post by mpi on Aug 30, 2020 10:17:52 GMT -8
The horns were on the long hood when they arrived on the D&H from GATX
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Post by sd40dash2 on Aug 31, 2020 6:07:38 GMT -8
The circa-1991 original GATX patch has been added along with the small details like eye pins, sunshade, cab vent etc. After everything was painted and dry, I hit everything with glosscote to prepare for decals. More targeted weathering touch ups to come later.  |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 1, 2020 2:51:23 GMT -8
This time I decided to use the Rustoleum Matte Clear as my dullcote after the decals were applied and dry. Good product.  |
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Post by thunderhawk on Sept 1, 2020 5:11:42 GMT -8
Spray bombs for the win.
I'm impressed with Krylan Matte 1311 myself, and it has the old style cap where one can clear it by turning the can upside down.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 1, 2020 9:12:54 GMT -8
I just noticed these units have dual fuel filler necks. I guess I'll need to shorten the air tanks to accommodate.
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Post by drolsen on Sept 1, 2020 9:18:50 GMT -8
Very cool to see the weathering coming together with the patches! That definitely looks like the ones I remember seeing on CSX's Baltimore Terminal Subdivision in the mid-'90s.
Looks like you replaced the Kato plastic grab irons with regular wire ones. That's a good visual improvement.
Dave
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Post by edgecrusher on Sept 1, 2020 9:20:51 GMT -8
I can't say for certain as that unit was modified by a Canadian road. But for U.S. build units, all the dash 2 era locos use the same air tank assembly. If possible I think you'd be better off moving the air tank forward to make room for the extra fuel fill pipe.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 1, 2020 9:29:17 GMT -8
Spray bombs for the win. I'm impressed with Krylan Matte 1311 myself, and it has the old style cap where one can clear it by turning the can upside down. Unfortunately the nozzle on my 1311 has started to give me trouble after several uses, so I went over to another can for now. I tried the upside down thing as well as cleaning with a piece of wire. The Rustoleum nozzle seems much more robust. Even with this minor issue this is still way easier and faster than fighting with the airbrush. |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 1, 2020 9:39:10 GMT -8
I can't say for certain as that unit was modified by a Canadian road. But for U.S. build units, all the dash 2 era locos use the same air tank assembly. If possible I think you'd be better off moving the air tank forward to make room for the extra fuel fill pipe. Thanks for the comment. Pretty sure this was not a CP mod, more likely EMD as-delivered. Upon closer inspection it appears that prototype practice from EMD was to adjust the air tank position to accommodate the extra filler. So I guess I'll do the same on my model! |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 1, 2020 9:41:34 GMT -8
Very cool to see the weathering coming together with the patches! That definitely looks like the ones I remember seeing on CSX's Baltimore Terminal Subdivision in the mid-'90s. Looks like you replaced the Kato plastic grab irons with regular wire ones. That's a good visual improvement. Dave Thanks Dave. Yes, I have definitely opted for Tichy grabs instead of the plastic ones. Still undecided which uncoupling lever part I will use as using wire ones will cost me eight (8) eye pins which are worth their weight in gold. For the handrails I am still leaning towards the factory ones. |
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Post by Christian on Sept 1, 2020 11:31:01 GMT -8
eight (8) eye pins which are worth their weight in gold. For the handrails I am still leaning towards the factory ones. Plano and KV Models (others) have etched eye bolts scaled to the sizes actually used on locomotives. Particularly useful for those pesky pin lifters. |
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Post by drolsen on Sept 1, 2020 13:09:19 GMT -8
Here's a great photo by Matt Atkinson from RailPictures that captures my memories of these secondhand CP units. As I mentioned before, I took a summer class at University of Maryland in College Park in the summer of 1996 to finish up my college requirements and used to see these CP run-through trains along CSX's Baltimore Terminal and Capital Subdivisions. This photo shows CP 5424, the number right before the one in Manny's original post, leading a train through the small NS yard in Alexandria, Virginia in June 1996. For my own personal interest, the lone office building beyond the trees is the Eisenhower Building, where the Army's Personnel Command (PERSCOM) - now Human Resources Command - used to be headquartered. I think this photo really captures this time period, with the ex-UP unit, two GATX, two CP dual flags, an older Multimark, and two NS units all lashed together. NS 341 departs Van Dorn in Alexandria, VA with a colorful eight engine lashup on a sunny June evening in 1996.I hope to create one of these run-through trains some day. Dave |
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Post by fr8kar on Sept 1, 2020 13:25:05 GMT -8
I can't say for certain as that unit was modified by a Canadian road. But for U.S. build units, all the dash 2 era locos use the same air tank assembly. If possible I think you'd be better off moving the air tank forward to make room for the extra fuel fill pipe. Thanks for the comment. Pretty sure this was not a CP mod, more likely EMD as-delivered. Upon closer inspection it appears that prototype practice from EMD was to adjust the air tank position to accommodate the extra filler. So I guess I'll do the same on my model! On this Athearn RTR model I removed the reservoirs and relocated them to the correct position, then added the missing details from the Cannon & Company fuel tank detail set:  On some other SD40-2s (especially blue box upgrades) I replaced the reservoirs with the superior Cannon part. Huge difference in appearance and well worth the effort. |
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Post by slowfreight on Sept 1, 2020 16:22:47 GMT -8
I feel that replacing the lousy sand filler lids on both short hood and long hood pays off nicely.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 1, 2020 17:29:54 GMT -8
Thanks for the comment. Pretty sure this was not a CP mod, more likely EMD as-delivered. Upon closer inspection it appears that prototype practice from EMD was to adjust the air tank position to accommodate the extra filler. So I guess I'll do the same on my model! On this Athearn RTR model I removed the reservoirs and relocated them to the correct position, then added the missing details from the Cannon & Company fuel tank detail set: On some other SD40-2s (especially blue box upgrades) I replaced the reservoirs with the superior Cannon part. Huge difference in appearance and well worth the effort. Very helpful post, thank you. I have removed the factory air tanks and will relocate them. I will order and add the superior Cannon parts to my stock for future builds like this. I do have the other bits on hand and will be adding them shortly. Thanks again. |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 1, 2020 17:32:40 GMT -8
I'm pretty happy with the two-stage patching effect on this model. Once the dullcote dries I will put the windows back in the cab, reassemble the shell and lightly spot-weather everything.  |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 1, 2020 17:33:35 GMT -8
I feel that replacing the lousy sand filler lids on both short hood and long hood pays off nicely. Fair enough. In your opinion, what are some good candidates for replacements? |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 1, 2020 17:51:16 GMT -8
Note too the CP K3H horn has been installed and primed. If I could make one suggestion, I would recommend replacing the “shoebox” dynamic brake vent next to the horn. That was always one of the greatest visual shortcomings of Kato EMDs. I actually thought they did away with that on the SD40-2, but I guess not. I think that’s a relatively easy but noticeable upgrade. Of course, that means matching paint, but it’s an area that will end up dirty anyway. Acceptable replacement?  |
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Post by drolsen on Sept 1, 2020 19:05:41 GMT -8
If I could make one suggestion, I would recommend replacing the “shoebox” dynamic brake vent next to the horn. That was always one of the greatest visual shortcomings of Kato EMDs. I actually thought they did away with that on the SD40-2, but I guess not. I think that’s a relatively easy but noticeable upgrade. Of course, that means matching paint, but it’s an area that will end up dirty anyway. Acceptable replacement? Yes, definitely, that’s what I’ve always used. Funny, that looks like a pretty old pack. I think they’ve been making those in grey plastic for about ten years! That was just the random thought that popped into my head when I saw the picture. Dave |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 1, 2020 19:22:10 GMT -8
^ OK thanks, I've got a rotary bit I can use to carefully remove the offending part and will replace with one of these.
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Post by slowfreight on Sept 1, 2020 20:11:01 GMT -8
I feel that replacing the lousy sand filler lids on both short hood and long hood pays off nicely. Fair enough. In your opinion, what are some good candidates for replacements? Detail Associates was what I always used. |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 2, 2020 13:32:01 GMT -8
Lots of small details have been addressed here, including grabs above and below the conductor side numberboard, small SBU antenna, fire cracker radio antenna, factory horn holes filled, top of nose painted, four nose grabs added, cab-side sunshade railings repaired, CP numberboard decals, patch paint and weathering along the way, reassembly, eye pins and more still to come.  |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 3, 2020 2:46:16 GMT -8
Shell has been reassembled after all the coats of sealer, decals, weathering and such. I don't think I'll be doing much more weathering on this shell.  |
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Post by Christian on Sept 3, 2020 3:19:12 GMT -8
Look at all those perkey little eyebolts!  |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 3, 2020 16:57:09 GMT -8
Rear of unit, note the use of metal grabs instead of factory parts. I have also detailed the rear by adding my own numbers, eye pins on the sides, flag brackets and more. Here you can also see the two different shades of yellow for the time-phased patches. And yes, I will be upgrading the sand filler hatches.  |
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Post by Christian on Sept 3, 2020 23:38:37 GMT -8
Here you can also see the two different shades of yellow for the time-phased patches. Finally I understand those patches in this photo. Front quarter photos weren't clear for me since I have no familiarity with the unit or it's history. I went back and looked at the prototype photos and the patches are now clear as a bell. I'm getting anxious to see the model put together. But, I really do understand that things have to be in pieces during most of the build. Boy, do I understand that! |
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Post by fr8kar on Sept 4, 2020 1:04:18 GMT -8
Here you can also see the two different shades of yellow for the time-phased patches. Finally I understand those patches in this photo. Front quarter photos weren't clear for me since I have no familiarity with the unit or it's history. I went back and looked at the prototype photos and the patches are now clear as a bell. I'm getting anxious to see the model put together. But, I really do understand that things have to be in pieces during most of the build. Boy, do I understand that! And seeing this second build done in subassemblies is really compelling. I frequently build a model into different subassemblies, but only during construction. I can't think of a time I've ever gotten past basic painting before the subassemblies come together, let alone get to the decals and weathering before assembly. It's fascinating to see and gives me something to think about for future builds. |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 4, 2020 3:22:55 GMT -8
^ Hi guys, thanks for commenting. I must give Kato credit for their assembly system here. Not having a one-piece shell has made everything much easier for various reasons. As an example, you can see the shell is almost finished. But the walkway and ends have not yet started. Yesterday I was hacking the steps off and the rest of the body shell was safely on the bench away from my hands and tools while I was removing details. Now, with a one-piece shell I would have of course done all this heavy detail removal upfront. But now I don't have to do any masking and was still able to spray the shell with all the needed coats of dull and gloss. Walkway surface weathering will be much easier since I won't have to worry about touching the sides of the body. As with my caboose cupola, building, painting, decalling, detailing, coating and weathering as you go along offers a lot of advantages.
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