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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 4, 2020 3:47:13 GMT -8
Better view of top rear showing the detailing done to date. Now that it's back together, this shell just has a few more details to add. I'll be replacing the hood vent and sand hatches plus adding a horn air line. Eye pins are expensive but I save the best DA version for diesel roofs and use the cheaper flat etchings in other places.
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Post by cemr5396 on Sept 4, 2020 6:33:17 GMT -8
If you are looking for another source for lift rings as DA parts get harder and harder to get, Cal Scale makes some nice ones. They are made of wire just like the DA version.
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Post by Artur on Sept 4, 2020 10:45:39 GMT -8
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 4, 2020 14:21:26 GMT -8
Front view of nearly-complete shell, note the outboard horn air line has been built and added. Lots of small details like this easily missed and not discovered until well into the build.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 5, 2020 2:58:47 GMT -8
Almost finished with just a few last-minute adjustments yet to make. Another rear view of the body, note the horn air line and red CP K3H horn. The prototype units were equipped to lead both in Canada and US.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 5, 2020 8:57:21 GMT -8
Last shell photo for a while to give you guys a break. After reading some feedback in this thread, I carefully removed the sand hatches and roof vent. Replacement parts are standing by. I also replaced the second antenna (removed prior to this photo) which I since discovered was the incorrect style.
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Post by Christian on Sept 5, 2020 9:36:23 GMT -8
Last shell photo for a while to give you guys a break. After reading some feedback in this thread, I carefully removed the sand hatches and roof vent. Replacement parts are standing by. I also replaced the second antenna (removed prior to this photo) which I since discovered was the incorrect style. I hate chopping into an all but finished shell. Looks like you did no damage. I'd replace those items also. The change is really little, but it makes the texture of the model feel more real.
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Post by grahamline on Sept 5, 2020 9:48:52 GMT -8
The sand fillers and air line add a great deal of interest to that shell and are pretty easy additions. I prefer the Yarmouth etchings because they are consistent and have a fully closed loop on the ends. Price is good too, and he ships very promptly.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 5, 2020 13:40:03 GMT -8
These are some of the parts I'll be using to detail the walkway and ends. The Cannon website says their step set 2003 is for Kato SD40 and SD45, but the package acknowledges these also fit the SD40-2. If Cannon is reading this, I would suggest updating the website product listing to make clear to customers that these work on SD40-2s.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 5, 2020 17:50:43 GMT -8
I couldn't find a perfect UP-style plow on the parts market so decided to tweak the factory part to more closely match what I was seeing in prototype photos. Here I have cut some .010 styrene strip to apply to the widened coupler opening. Two grabs and their holes are also standing by for installation.
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Post by slowfreight on Sept 5, 2020 19:09:22 GMT -8
I will have to dig out the photos from my SD40 project, but one thing that really spiffed up the underframe was to grind off the bevel and glue 1/8" C channel onto the underframe to simulate the 12" I beams that EMD uses to make frame rails. That inevitably leads to replacing the air tanks, and...and...etc....
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 6, 2020 3:17:11 GMT -8
I don't like that half-cylinder that sticks out to accommodate the coupler screwdriver. Maybe small screwdrivers hadn't been invented at the time this model was designed. Anyway, I have removed the offending part and installed a .005 styrene plate in its place.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 6, 2020 8:11:01 GMT -8
Chassis has been marked with F and R and sideframes have been weathered. I also removed the fuel tank halves so I could work on them more easily.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 6, 2020 11:26:47 GMT -8
Close-up view of truck weathering. I think this is about the right amount given the nearly end-of-life age of the unit. Prototype photos do show much heavier weathering here but with a light base colour like grey, it is very easy to overdo this in model form. I will hold back on more sideframe weathering unless I read a chorus of objections here.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 6, 2020 18:35:07 GMT -8
Fuel tank halves were sprayed with Matte Clear before I noticed the prototype dual fuel fillers. Argh! Stay tuned for future photos showing my work to address this. Thanks to Ryan for the photo showing it can be done.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 7, 2020 3:11:11 GMT -8
Time to move on to chassis and walkway sections. Close inspection of prototype photos revealed dual fuel fillers, meaning the air tanks had to be removed and remounted. Not a fan of doing that as the air tanks are usually bumped off by the recommended method of handling the model by the fuel tank.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 7, 2020 7:45:42 GMT -8
Somewhat annoying was the step removal procedure. This was done with rotary bit, knife, chisel, file and bloody fingers. Still better than being at work.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 7, 2020 13:37:18 GMT -8
Cannon recommends lightly sanding both sides of their etching in order to help the paint adhere. Good idea.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 8, 2020 3:46:14 GMT -8
Krylon to the rescue once again. Take a look back through this thread and you'll see the number of times a spray can was used on this simple project. Now multiply that by the additional time and fuss required to do this by airbrush. It's also one of the reasons I do most of my modelling in the summer. Quick spray outside, let it dry and carry on.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 8, 2020 7:59:10 GMT -8
Find a shaded place in the yard away from things, determine wind direction and spray away. Takes 30 seconds.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 8, 2020 12:59:51 GMT -8
A small piece of tape is needed so the spray force doesn't blow your part onto the ground. Takes seconds to do this, still way faster and easier than airbrushing.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 8, 2020 18:49:19 GMT -8
The factory instructions for application of this part are really good. I followed them and have excellent results. Thanks Cannon!
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 9, 2020 2:52:47 GMT -8
After a lot of tedious work and varying small procedures, the new steps are installed. Despite the extra effort involved, I now see that it's worth removing the factory steps rather than simply gluing these new ones over top. Love the see-through effect. Made a big difference to this model.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 9, 2020 7:06:00 GMT -8
Ever-important view from underneath that some modellers omit when sharing photos for some reason. A few tiny bits of paint came off the new parts during installation -- these are easy to touch up later after the glue dries. Note the .015-.020 mounting brackets leftover from the old steps. Here you can also see the piece of .005 styrene I used to replace the unprototypical factory half-cylinder on the rear pilot.
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Post by myoungwisc on Sept 9, 2020 7:06:35 GMT -8
Nice work, the Cannon steps are a much needed upgrade for legacy models. The Krylon grey ended up matching pretty well.
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Post by Christian on Sept 9, 2020 7:20:02 GMT -8
Now multiply that by the additional time and fuss required to do this by airbrush. I use brush, rattle can and airbrush moving back and forth. I think a lot of airbrush fuss kinda depends on how the whole airbrush thing is set up. My compressor lives to the left of my work table. Air lines and all the apparatus is at the right - right handed. After you first posted the back yard thing I actually had a rattle can need. A loop of tape, a bit of board, and a quick trip outback. Done. Yes, quick. But, to use my airbrush I need to pick it up, run a couple of drops of cleaner through followed by paint. When I'm done, I flush it with water, run a bit of cleaner and wipe it down. It's ready for the next time. I never left my chair. Yes, I do need to occasionally pull the needle and that is always at the worst time. Just as I occasionally need to sharpen my knife blade, also at the worst time. I recognize that everyone has different circumstances and habits and preferences. In other words, YMMV
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 9, 2020 10:45:58 GMT -8
Remaining parts to detail the ends.
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Post by Christian on Sept 9, 2020 14:20:19 GMT -8
Remaining parts to detail the ends. What's in the left most baggie?
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 9, 2020 14:25:45 GMT -8
^ Leftover fret from a Kaslo caboose. It has etched eye pins that a certain someone recommended I use for the uncoupling levers. Saved me a mint on the DA2206s.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 9, 2020 14:27:14 GMT -8
Evergreen rod to be used for UP-style hose bracket.
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