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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 7, 2020 7:42:29 GMT -8
In June 2019, Walthers Mainline released an accurate SOO wide vision caboose based on their 56-145 series without running boards. At the time, I upgraded two of these models (SOO 60 and 94) to improve the detail and overall look and you can see the results in the Project Archive of this forum. I was satisfied with those upgrades, but two more of these models in foobie paint have since come my way for a bargain price that I couldn't pass up. The SOO painted version seems to have disappeared but there are foobies (CP, Conrail etc) still available on ebay. I'm spending more time at home than ever before during this pandemic but don't want to spend all my time staring at screens. Projects like this are the right answer for me and I hope you will follow along this photo tour. I plan to post between one and three images per day. Please ask questions and feel free to post photos if you've done similar upgrades on the Walthers Mainline SOO caboose! Let's get started! I found one of these in CP paint in a sale bin last year and set it aside at the time. Then recently another bargain came my way and I decided to upgrade and repaint both at the same time. I can always sell them if I end up with too many. This is just for fun.  |
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Post by myoungwisc on Sept 7, 2020 9:24:57 GMT -8
Nice to see you adding to the fleet. These are great models for those of us who model the Soo, not much required to make an acceptable model. I finished my version of #145 a few months ago - one of a few repainted in the mid-80s that received a white roof. The cupola errors were too much to forgive so I installed one of Ryan Harris' Shapeways parts: www.shapeways.com/product/4ABN27UAM/ev-cupola-atsf-ce-6-8-11-soo-line-no-56-145?optionId=57903691&li=shopsAchieving flush glass wasn't too difficult as I had some Walthers bay window glazing handy from another project - the side glass fits perfectly and the end glass requires just a bit of filing to make it fit. A couple photos: 
Best of luck on your builds, looking forward to watching them progress. Martin |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 7, 2020 13:35:35 GMT -8
Hi Martin, that looks amazing. I was unaware SOO had some of these with a white roof. That could simplify the painting process!
Thanks for posting!
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 7, 2020 15:58:20 GMT -8
The SOO painted version of this model sold out first but the lettering font and placement on that one is wrong anyway. So it doesn't really matter which paint scheme you buy if you intend to build an accurate, detailed model.  |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 8, 2020 3:48:04 GMT -8
These are some of the parts I'm planning on using. Pretty basic stuff really but I would say the Plano platform kit and Moloco draft gear are the most important.  |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 8, 2020 7:57:39 GMT -8
The last Walthers Mainline cabooses I stripped basically laughed at my 70% alcohol, so this time I'm throwing the most powerful stuff at it. I did this early in the project as I expect it to take a few days to remove the paint. I can work on the chassis in the meantime.  |
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Post by slowfreight on Sept 8, 2020 8:01:56 GMT -8
I do the stripping in a zip-loc bag so that the alcohol doesn't evaporate. It's good for repeated use that way.
My all 3d-printed SOO waycar is moving steadily to the front of the queue...is that Moloco draft gear a best guess or definitely the right part? It looks like something where I should order a fleet pak anyway but they're out of stock. There is really no reason to do this model today with fr8kar's parts except that I ordered them about a month before Walthers announced the RTR version.
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Post by fr8kar on Sept 8, 2020 11:14:18 GMT -8
I do the stripping in a zip-loc bag so that the alcohol doesn't evaporate. It's good for repeated use that way. My all 3d-printed SOO waycar is moving steadily to the front of the queue...is that Moloco draft gear a best guess or definitely the right part? It looks like something where I should order a fleet pak anyway but they're out of stock. There is really no reason to do this model today with fr8kar's parts except that I ordered them about a month before Walthers announced the RTR version. I do the same thing when I strip. I always use a bag. When I empty the bag I use scissors to trim off a corner of the bag and let the stripping agent flow back into the bottle through the small opening I've cut. This makes it easy to get the fluid back into the bottle it was in originally and also allows you to see and filter out the big chunks of paint the were removed rather than putting them back into the bottle with the stripping agent. And in the case of alcohol, not only do you want to combat evaporation but the longer alcohol is exposed to air and moisture the more it's going to absorb water and become more dilute, so keeping it sealed up while it does its thing can't hurt. I agree about the Walthers model making the printed parts more or less irrelevant, at least for this particular version. But I'm not mad! It's a good thing. I want to see a greater variety of road-specific cabooses and over the past few years we've certainly made some real progress. I can't wait to see what comes out next. But I'm always up for a good build. |
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Post by slowfreight on Sept 8, 2020 11:40:20 GMT -8
I'm also thinking that with my small (half dozen) fleet of SOO units, a second waycar might not be out of the question, but using the Walthers core for the second one. Must get first one done, though.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 8, 2020 13:02:08 GMT -8
In order to mount the new draft gear, it is necessary to remove the weight and trim back about 1/4" from each end. The tools and method are up to you, but whatever you do, please use proper safety gear for this job. It's not worth getting yourself injured over what's supposed to be a fun project. Why risk getting involved with all the drama in medical facilities these days? Stay safe!  |
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Post by drolsen on Sept 8, 2020 14:01:56 GMT -8
Just curious, assuming I understand how you're mounting the draft gear, but would it be easier (and retain the weight) to just drill oversized holes in the weights at the locations where the mounting screws will go? I love cabooses of all flavors, so I'm looking forward to this project. I want to eventually model these two CSX cabooses, which are kind of oddballs in the large fleet of former Chessie bay windows that survive today. CSXT 903154 at Newark, OH on Nov 2, 2002 (David Miller photo from Fallen Flags) CSXT 900077 (ex-N&W 518500) at Green Spring, WV on July 5, 2005 (G. Gerard photo from the RR Picture Archives)  Martin, your Soo caboose looks great! |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 8, 2020 18:47:37 GMT -8
Just curious, assuming I understand how you're mounting the draft gear, but would it be easier (and retain the weight) to just drill oversized holes in the weights at the locations where the mounting screws will go? I love cabooses of all flavors, so I'm looking forward to this project. Thanks David for your post. I hope you will enjoy the build. Regarding your question, I have no drill press or good bits, so I am more successful with cutting metal than drilling into it. If you have better hardware then yes, I suppose you could drill some oversize holes to allow the screws to clear both ends of the weight while retaining most volume weight. |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 9, 2020 10:44:02 GMT -8
Weights have been trimmed back and the ends carefully filed to remove all sharp edges and burrs. Trim back enough material so the new draft gear mounting screws can clear.  |
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Post by slowfreight on Sept 9, 2020 11:04:50 GMT -8
Ummm...should have spoken up sooner. But often in that case I will CA a thick (.100 or .180) styrene block under each end of the weight to raise it up and clear the screws. You probably want to CA the scraps to the weight anyway to make weight when the car is finished.
Using the formula 1 oz + 1/2 oz per inch of length, I pile all of the major bits onto my little scale and make sure the car is going to be close to right, then add what weight is missing.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 10, 2020 2:53:02 GMT -8
After re-attaching the weight (great idea to raise it in the future!), the next step is to file flat the platform surface detail. Only file away enough to remove the detail as we will be keeping some sections of the platforms.  |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 10, 2020 8:37:43 GMT -8
Mark the spots showing where to cut away material. I am keeping the step side plates and a bit of the platform. Also remove a bit of the center sills to make way for the new draft gear and mark the spots for the mounting draft gear screw at this time.  |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 10, 2020 16:47:23 GMT -8
Cut off the coupler trip pin at this time and weather. Then assemble the new draft gear parts for test fitting. Although not being attached at the present time, you will need these to determine the drilling spot for mounting hole. Remember those holes need to end up inside the body shell.  |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 11, 2020 2:29:27 GMT -8
24-hours later it appears the paint is starting to soften. Don't be in a hurry with this. Plan to allow at least 4 days for the alcohol to do the heavy lifting here. If you remove the shell from the bath too early, there will be stubborn bits of paint and printing that will be almost impossible to remove. Let the alcohol do its job for as long as possible!  |
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Post by stevewagner on Sept 11, 2020 5:49:27 GMT -8
This is a very interesting and admirable thread. Thanks to all who have posted on it.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 11, 2020 14:03:38 GMT -8
After filing down the platform surface detail and marking your spots, the next thing to do is start cutting.  |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 12, 2020 3:58:19 GMT -8
Next, cut out the steps and drill the draft gear screw hole.  |
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Post by Colin 't Hart on Sept 13, 2020 0:23:00 GMT -8
Cut off the coupler trip pin at this time and weather. Can you describe how you weather the couplers? |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 13, 2020 4:45:17 GMT -8
Rotary bit used to make the big cut across the platform. Use safety equipment here and be careful not to cut off what's left of the steps. I know some prefer to avoid power tools for such jobs, that's just personal preference, I know there are pros and cons, this is just my way.  |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 13, 2020 6:01:46 GMT -8
Hi Colin, those couplers are hand painted with rust paint and a tiny brush. Just be careful not to get the paint inside any of the joints and you're good. Once the paint is dry, make sure the coupler operates freely and then burnish the faces with a rotary wire tool. Do this before installing the couplers so you don't get small dots of rust paint on the coupler box. If on a RTR car then you may have to touch up any accidental dots afterwards.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 14, 2020 3:21:03 GMT -8
QUESTION: For the 1987+ brown cabooses, which colour should I use, top or bottom? I'm having a hard time choosing and would love to read your opinions.
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Post by dstark on Sept 14, 2020 13:33:08 GMT -8
QUESTION: For the 1987+ brown cabooses, which colour should I use, top or bottom? I'm having a hard time choosing and would love to read your opinions.
Photo storage still full here but sent you one via e-mail. The bottom colour looks close but perhaps a bit darker than the rich brown on these when freshly painted. I shot several passing through London, ON in the early 1990s and they had a lighter 'muddy' look to them. SOO 119 here is the one I sent a photo of and actually cleaner than it was in my 1992 - I've heard the CP/SOO employee that looked after the remaining SOO cabooses at Bensenville had them washed occasionally. In any case I'd go with a redder shade than your samples. Doug Stark www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=4574520 |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 14, 2020 15:01:16 GMT -8
Thanks Doug!
Perhaps I could lighten the bottom colour with a white wash.
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Post by myoungwisc on Sept 14, 2020 17:42:27 GMT -8
QUESTION: For the 1987+ brown cabooses, which colour should I use, top or bottom? I'm having a hard time choosing and would love to read your opinions.
Photo storage still full here but sent you one via e-mail. The bottom colour looks close but perhaps a bit darker than the rich brown on these when freshly painted. I shot several passing through London, ON in the early 1990s and they had a lighter 'muddy' look to them. SOO 119 here is the one I sent a photo of and actually cleaner than it was in my 1992 - I've heard the CP/SOO employee that looked after the remaining SOO cabooses at Bensenville had them washed occasionally. In any case I'd go with a redder shade than your samples. Doug Stark www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=4574520Agreed with Doug that the lower color is closer. I've used Trucolor paint with success; in an airbrush cup mix Santa Fe brown thinned 30%, two drops of boxcar red, one drop of white. |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 14, 2020 17:51:13 GMT -8
Thanks Martin and Doug for your valued opinions. I had a feeling there would be a preference to the lower colour. I like it too but find it a bit too dark. Since these two are spray paint colours, I am considering application of the lower colour followed by white and boxcar red washes afterwards. I don't really enjoy airbrushing, so I'm trying to avoid doing that unless it cannot be helped. Here is the photo I had in mind which suggests the TOP colour may be closer, but there is probably shadow lighting at play in this photo.  |
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Post by Colin 't Hart on Sept 14, 2020 22:56:49 GMT -8
I sent you a PM, Manny.
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