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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 12, 2020 3:58:19 GMT -8
Next, cut out the steps and drill the draft gear screw hole.  |
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Post by Colin 't Hart on Sept 13, 2020 0:23:00 GMT -8
Cut off the coupler trip pin at this time and weather.  Can you describe how you weather the couplers? |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 13, 2020 4:45:17 GMT -8
Rotary bit used to make the big cut across the platform. Use safety equipment here and be careful not to cut off what's left of the steps. I know some prefer to avoid power tools for such jobs, that's just personal preference, I know there are pros and cons, this is just my way.  |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 13, 2020 6:01:46 GMT -8
Hi Colin, those couplers are hand painted with rust paint and a tiny brush. Just be careful not to get the paint inside any of the joints and you're good. Once the paint is dry, make sure the coupler operates freely and then burnish the faces with a rotary wire tool. Do this before installing the couplers so you don't get small dots of rust paint on the coupler box. If on a RTR car then you may have to touch up any accidental dots afterwards.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 14, 2020 3:21:03 GMT -8
QUESTION: For the 1987+ brown cabooses, which colour should I use, top or bottom? I'm having a hard time choosing and would love to read your opinions.
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Post by dstark on Sept 14, 2020 13:33:08 GMT -8
QUESTION: For the 1987+ brown cabooses, which colour should I use, top or bottom? I'm having a hard time choosing and would love to read your opinions.
Photo storage still full here but sent you one via e-mail. The bottom colour looks close but perhaps a bit darker than the rich brown on these when freshly painted. I shot several passing through London, ON in the early 1990s and they had a lighter 'muddy' look to them. SOO 119 here is the one I sent a photo of and actually cleaner than it was in my 1992 - I've heard the CP/SOO employee that looked after the remaining SOO cabooses at Bensenville had them washed occasionally. In any case I'd go with a redder shade than your samples. Doug Stark www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=4574520 |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 14, 2020 15:01:16 GMT -8
Thanks Doug!
Perhaps I could lighten the bottom colour with a white wash.
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Post by myoungwisc on Sept 14, 2020 17:42:27 GMT -8
QUESTION: For the 1987+ brown cabooses, which colour should I use, top or bottom? I'm having a hard time choosing and would love to read your opinions.
Photo storage still full here but sent you one via e-mail. The bottom colour looks close but perhaps a bit darker than the rich brown on these when freshly painted. I shot several passing through London, ON in the early 1990s and they had a lighter 'muddy' look to them. SOO 119 here is the one I sent a photo of and actually cleaner than it was in my 1992 - I've heard the CP/SOO employee that looked after the remaining SOO cabooses at Bensenville had them washed occasionally. In any case I'd go with a redder shade than your samples. Doug Stark www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=4574520Agreed with Doug that the lower color is closer. I've used Trucolor paint with success; in an airbrush cup mix Santa Fe brown thinned 30%, two drops of boxcar red, one drop of white. |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 14, 2020 17:51:13 GMT -8
Thanks Martin and Doug for your valued opinions. I had a feeling there would be a preference to the lower colour. I like it too but find it a bit too dark. Since these two are spray paint colours, I am considering application of the lower colour followed by white and boxcar red washes afterwards. I don't really enjoy airbrushing, so I'm trying to avoid doing that unless it cannot be helped. Here is the photo I had in mind which suggests the TOP colour may be closer, but there is probably shadow lighting at play in this photo.  |
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Post by Colin 't Hart on Sept 14, 2020 22:56:49 GMT -8
I sent you a PM, Manny.
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Post by Christian on Sept 15, 2020 1:16:15 GMT -8
Looking at the photograph; you are going to need a red wash to fade those huge SOO letters no matter what the base is.
Use your samples for a test. Top color with boxcar red wash. Bottom sample with your current thought of white followed by boxcar red. I have a feeling that the top sample with boxcar red wash will be close. A white wash dulls things and I think that white over the very dark sample followed by a sorta dark wash of boxcar red might be interesting, but not what is on the prototype.
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 15, 2020 4:45:47 GMT -8
Thanks for the paint comments! Continuing on with the underframe, the center piece should easily snap off at this point. Don't worry about all the damaged plastic, most of that will be cleaned up. The step sides are NOT damaged, despite what it looks like here.  |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 15, 2020 7:05:24 GMT -8
Top from left to right: base leather brown from can, base brown with oxide wash. Bottom from left to right: base kona with white wash, base kona with white and oxide wash, base kona with oxide wash and lastly original base kona from can. Which do you think is closest?  |
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Post by Christian on Sept 15, 2020 8:22:32 GMT -8
All of them! Here are several photos of one specific caboose over the years. It looks to me that your Kona right out of the can is good for new paint based on the 1987 photo. Your oxide wash over the Kona seems good for the same caboose in this century. Both your leather browns somewhere in between. The white and white/oxide as washes don't work for me. www.rrpicturearchives.net/rspicture.aspx?id=362839 |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 16, 2020 1:50:35 GMT -8
Next use a sanding drum to grind back some of the center sill to accommodate the new draft gear. Don't worry about this mess -- all these tools will do a fine job of cleaning this up as you'll see in the next photo.  |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 16, 2020 4:31:39 GMT -8
After all that grinding and cutting, now is the time to file and clean everything up nicely. Constantly refer to your new parts to ensure proper placement and knowledge of how much and where to remove material.  |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 16, 2020 7:47:24 GMT -8
With all detail removal behind us we can now turn our attention to the new parts to be added. Use the NWSL Chopper II to cut out consistent step kick plates from styrene strip, 8 needed per caboose.  |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 16, 2020 10:36:38 GMT -8
Steps and platforms have been removed from their frets, ready to install.  |
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Post by edgecrusher on Sept 16, 2020 11:12:11 GMT -8
I don't know what you are using to cut out the photo etch parts, but I'd highly recommend one of these. xuron.com/index.php/main/consumer_products/2/80 They pretty much eliminate any of the warping and twisting you get from other methods. I've had mine for about a year and I love it, its still as sharp as the day I got it. Just make sure to ONLY use it on thin sheet metals. |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 16, 2020 13:29:39 GMT -8
^ Thanks for the suggestion. I am using small nail scissors to remove etchings. The reason the frets above are bent was so I could fit the tool in to be able to cut. Will take a look at the Xuron part you mention.
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