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Post by loco8107 on Feb 9, 2024 10:44:43 GMT -8
Guess I'm going to have to pick up a copy, cause quite honestly, I don't understand the hype in regards to these locomotives. Not hating by any means but maybe I'll learn a thing or 2 and make some sense out of all this. They were very common on locals in the NE part of the USA. Mainly the CR and to a lesser degree the post CR years. In past years, there probably wasn’t enough paint schemes to do but since ‘99 there definitely is with the CR split. Between the CR variations, both NS schemes, the yn2 and yn3, RDG of course and the LIRR alone there’s plenty plus some of the ex RDG ones were sold over the years too. And it covers a very long time period too- 1968 thru today.
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Post by loco8107 on Feb 6, 2024 10:16:03 GMT -8
My copy of Diesel Era just arrived today. I don't think it's a coincidence that the cover feature is Part 1 of the Alco C415, history, rosters, owners, etc. But the other half of the magazine is Part 1 of the SW1001. Also a coincidence? Interesting…..
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Post by loco8107 on Feb 6, 2024 10:14:28 GMT -8
Everyone must be out enjoying the weather as Sunday is nearly over. I have continued working on my load of 73 GM B bodies. The autos still need glass and final detailing, and the autorack need to be weathered, but I couldn't resist mocking up the load. After last last month, I think most of us forgot what the sun looks like! Great work as usual everyone!
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Post by loco8107 on Feb 4, 2024 16:28:27 GMT -8
That should make the absolute minority happy, wait, they still want the T6 and S6 as well! And the SW1001 Amen to that! There was a post on FB a few weeks ago that some mftr is working on one. Let’s hope……
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Post by loco8107 on Jan 30, 2024 15:52:02 GMT -8
I have always made sure the handrails are on the loco and do a very good job with packaging. Never had issues. And yes I always use bubble wrap when shipping anything. It’s well worth it.
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Post by loco8107 on Jan 30, 2024 15:51:13 GMT -8
Anyone sell used Atlas HO Locomotives on Ebay or anywhere you ship? What do you do with the handrails and details you very carefully placed on the model before you pack it up? I have in the past tried to take at least the end rails off but wound up breaking one. Now that parts r getting scarce not sure I want to mess with that. The older Atlas packaging seemed to be made to pack them securely without the handrails. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. There is always the local train shows I guess. Thanks SB As far as parts are concerned, Altas in the past has always had more parts available when a new release happens. I have noticed less parts on eBay in recent months tho.
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Post by loco8107 on Jan 5, 2024 22:26:52 GMT -8
Thank the lord - I hate those couplers!
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Post by loco8107 on Dec 28, 2023 14:19:58 GMT -8
I have an Atlas Master GP38 2158 in H1 paint. I’m thinking of adding some more details (fans, DW plow -and such) to it and wanted to know- which brand acrylic is close to the Atlas green paint?
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Post by loco8107 on Dec 25, 2023 8:35:02 GMT -8
Thanks and the same to everyone here!
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Post by loco8107 on Dec 20, 2023 18:17:28 GMT -8
Why worry about it? I had an elderly cousin, who had accrued much brass, etc. and a huge am't of HO freight, & pass. cars. He told his kids my cousins), all were adults, to make sure I got his collection, which I said I would buy. The distance from Florida, to N.J. was a factor. The oldest cousin told me "When Pop dies, I'll immediately notify you..." He never bothered, & sold the entire collection to some creep, who bought-it for literally pennies on the dollar! My own son (in is 50's), called me one day, to state: "Hey Dad...you need to sell-off all your diorama's & all your train crap (the layout is 24'x24'), containing a huge am't of loco's etc....as I don't have-the-time to go-through all that train crap of yours..." "Let-them all eat cake!" I won't be here, & no matter my wishes, the kids will do as they d**n-well lease, anyway... How true that last sentence is, and that covers a lot more than trains/layouts.
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Post by loco8107 on Dec 1, 2023 11:24:43 GMT -8
They always find a way!
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Post by loco8107 on Nov 30, 2023 7:55:58 GMT -8
Hahahaha one of my 2 is a lot less furry twin of yours! They both love to just watch the train go around under the tree….
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Post by loco8107 on Nov 26, 2023 7:22:04 GMT -8
Thanks for the answers. I have only used paint outdoors with the necessary protections- but I only used the spray cans. I was wondering of the popular brands who has the lowest odor for future projects. I was wondering how Tamiya is as they also make acrylic sprays- I don’t have an airbrush set which isn’t cheap either. I’ve had good luck with the sprays being very careful with them. Some brands are stronger than others which is why I asked the question. Tamiya, Vallejo, and AK Interactive are acrylic lacquers. Read the cans. If it says Highly Flammable you are dealing with a high VOC solvent spray, propellent, and smell. Thanks for the info. Does the same apply to the Tamiya acrylic jars?
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Post by loco8107 on Nov 25, 2023 7:38:40 GMT -8
Thanks for the answers. I have only used paint outdoors with the necessary protections- but I only used the spray cans. I was wondering of the popular brands who has the lowest odor for future projects. I was wondering how Tamiya is as they also make acrylic sprays- I don’t have an airbrush set which isn’t cheap either. I’ve had good luck with the sprays being very careful with them. Some brands are stronger than others which is why I asked the question.
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Post by loco8107 on Nov 24, 2023 14:51:38 GMT -8
I was wondering about this as I’m limited with brand experiences who has the lowest odor? I know Floquil was one of the strongest but how is a brand like Tamiya vs Scalecoat and TruColor and such?
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Post by loco8107 on Nov 17, 2023 16:39:23 GMT -8
And speaking of Badger- I have a bottle of CR blue but want to slightly darken it. Is it ok to use another brand black or darker blue without causing issues? Hard to find those colors now and it may be easier for me anyway.
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Post by loco8107 on Nov 16, 2023 10:34:53 GMT -8
How does Badge Modelflex like being brushed on? (To added detail parts, mostly) Tru-Color doesn't seem to like it very much, doesn't cover well and adding a second coat seems to remove some of the first coat. Badger has always brushed well. I used it years ago.
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Post by loco8107 on Nov 16, 2023 7:35:00 GMT -8
Modelflex brushes fine. But it doesn't have much shelf life after being opened. Vallejo makes hundreds of colors. Those not marked "air" brush well. Mission Models paint is currently my go-to for brushing. However, the color choices are not as extensive as other model paints. Pro Acryl (Monument Hobbies) is another paint line that brushes well and is highly regarded by military and gaming model builders. Pro Acryl and Mission Models paint is made in the USA. Tamiya Paint has been around a long time and brushes very, very well. Not so many colors, but really great paints. Of those paints I mentioned only Modelflex has railroad names printed on the bottle. If you are lucky enough to have a model shop that caters to Military, gaming, or other miniatures you can take a look at the paints and make a match. If you are ordering by mail you probably need to choose a couple of related shades and that runs up the cost. To come up with a TrailerTrain cadmium yellow I ended up with five bottles of paint from three makers. Yet I'm going to have to play with different primers to get what I think is TT yellow! Finally, although some folks poo-poo them, craft store acrylics are great for brushwork. The paint names can be cute rather than useful! Another late thought - Badger Stynylrez primer under the Tru-Color might be a solution to coverage and stickiness. Does Tamiya brush well with larger parts too? (I’m using acrylics) What type of brush is the best to use leaving the least amount of brush marks?
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Post by loco8107 on Nov 12, 2023 14:33:19 GMT -8
Better late than never I guess... Well composed photograph. And fine modeling. I agree and that’s the norm anymore. Still great work being done by all who post.
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Post by loco8107 on Nov 8, 2023 11:43:45 GMT -8
Any news on this? Been almost 4 months Don’t hold your breath
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Post by loco8107 on Nov 4, 2023 15:50:45 GMT -8
Interesting. I will not buy "digital books" myself just like I won't by digital only music releases. Sure, I digitize my music but only from hard copies that I own. Everybody has to make their own choices. People with my views will die off and make way for the new ways, However, as long as I'm still kicking, I will support actual products that you can hold on your hands. Technology is over-rated. Look at people today. Look at the "progress" and control mechanisms that come with it. No thanks. Your last 4 sentences say it all which I totally agree with. I like their books as I have a few.
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Post by loco8107 on Nov 4, 2023 15:46:50 GMT -8
Please excuse the perception of any tone here as that is not my intention. Those tiny hobby cans are a ripoff, hard to find and get shipped at reasonable prices. I don't understand the general insistence railroaders have to only use hobby venue paint. I have posted several examples of successful applications using fullsize Krylon spray paint cans here through the years. Purchased from your local hardware store at far more sane unit costs, no shipping hassles/expense and works very well right out of the can. I've nearly given up on all hobby brand paint and dullcote as it had all gotten too difficult/expensive. Just not worth it anymore. Yes, I know Krylon et al do not make all the unique railway colours, so my comments only apply to the more common close enough/red/white/black/dullcote. Various box stores have extensive colour lines, so in many cases it's easiest to accept something close enough. I would rather not retype everything I've learned on this but I did post it all here before. Best bet if interested would be to take the time to pull up my threads from 2019 and 2020 for details. Re-reading this whole thread, I know Rustoleum also has good colors too that don’t need to be mixed but SC has the best nozzles for a spray can. No one else comes close. Otherwise I wouldn’t care as much as I don’t have nor can afford an airbrush set including a not so cheap good compressor and I don’t plan on needing to paint that many models to even warrant getting an airbrush set. Just my thoughts.
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Post by loco8107 on Nov 4, 2023 15:39:18 GMT -8
Unfortunately it doesn’t seem like it’ll happen anytime soon if ever at this point. Even in today’s world, I’m surprised no one else has tried to make a bid for SC yet. It’s been a while since we heard any talk about it. Even Cannon is still going- thankfully.
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Post by loco8107 on Sept 12, 2023 5:06:50 GMT -8
Which begs the question- are all of their parts supposed to be sanded along the edges before assembling? [/quote] This is only necessary to the edges of the front and back walls of the cabs. Dave Hussey Cannon and Company [/quote] Ok and thank you for responding.
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Post by loco8107 on Sept 11, 2023 8:03:53 GMT -8
I have heard of some folks using slide plate glass. Tape the Cannon piece to it and score with a knife. It is thin enough that you can sand. I am going to give this method a try after I finish the GP30 I am working on and start on my set of 6 axle locomotives. I do not like the Kato cabs on their SD40-2's so I will be using Cannon cabs. The only issue I ever had and still have with the Cannon cabs is the front and rear wall. They do not want to reman flat and tend to bow inward. Typically I glue them in place and lock them up. Problem there is if a light goes out there is no way to replace it. So I may design a new method of mounting the cabs so they can be removed. Although with how much I do not run my models and how LED's last a long time. I may not have to ever worry about removing the cab. I will be long dead and gone before an LED burns out if installed and protected properly. After de-spruing the cab front and rear walls, gently sand their edges (I use a fine/medium sanding stick) to eliminate the slight draft angle along their edges. Once the edge is squared up, assemble the cab as usual, and the inward bow should not happen as the cement sets. Which begs the question- are all of their parts supposed to be sanded along the edges before assembling?
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Post by loco8107 on Sept 11, 2023 4:31:27 GMT -8
Funny this subject comes up as I just googled some CSX GP38-2 pics and saw some of the ex SCL ones working with yard slugs back in the 90’s. Conrail and NS had GP10’s and GP9’s respectively doing the same work years ago.
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Post by loco8107 on Sept 10, 2023 9:05:06 GMT -8
If you're asking about filling unused holes in the cab, I like to drill the hole out to fit the closest size Evergreen styrene rod available. It is available in multiple sizes. Glue the plug with some extra thin styrene cement, then once dry, trim it flush and sand it smooth. That’s exactly what I mean and I even drilled holes on the left side of the nose for the grab irons to be on the correct side too. So the right side ones will need to be filled in too.
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Post by loco8107 on Sept 10, 2023 7:27:23 GMT -8
I have a pack and was wondering what do you all use to drill the holes for them? I’ve noticed the mounting “pins” are not round, but flat. I use a #77 drill bit. The flat pins go into these holes and once a small drop of super glue is added any gap (which is really covered by the shade) disappears. I forgot to ask- will using CA glue also hide any holes after painting? Most CR units only had them on the engineer’s side but the Atlas master 38’s have pre drilled holes for the shades on both sides of the cab.
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Post by loco8107 on Sept 2, 2023 9:37:11 GMT -8
Has anyone used something other than the thin and flimsy windows provided for them? A shame the cabs can’t be a little thicker as they’re great kits. I'm curious why you think the windows are flimsy? Even before they're installed, they're pretty robust. As are the cabs themselves when assembled properly, which yes, does require removing the very slight draft angle on the front and rear. Just a quick count, but I have somewhere around 15 locos that I've used Cannon cabs, and don't find them the least bit fragile. And with the fine cross-section, once painted and the windows installed, the realism, particularly up close, is unparalleled. I may have used the wrong word but they are awesome kits. I’d rather see a better way of installing them than using glue. I want to get one for my next unit project but what’s the best stuff to “glue” them to the cab? And not risk getting it on the windows
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Post by loco8107 on Sept 1, 2023 7:40:17 GMT -8
Has anyone used something other than the thin and flimsy windows provided for them? A shame the cabs can’t be a little thicker as they’re great kits.
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